Got a '99 S10. The drivers door went droopy on me about 2003. I put it in
the shop and had the hinge redone. Cost was about $85.00. About 14 months
later, the door dropped again. I called the chevy dealer -- they said
tough luck -- warranty was for 12 months only.
I'm tired of the misalignment - decided to get this fixed again. I called
another dealer to set up an appointment. They say that this repair cost
$125, is only guaranteed 12 months and that the hinge would only last about
a year and a half unless it was continually lubed.
This sound normal or is this a load of BS? What is a good price to pay for
this repair? Who long should the repair last? Any pointers really
Had the same problem with both my 95 3500 crew cab and my 99 suburban. Only
one of the many quality issues I had with those trucks.
GM's crappy engineering and build quality is well known.
I forgot how much I paid to have them done, but it seems like because it is
such a common problem, an independent shop might be able to do it cheaper.
Best of luck
Don't be using the DOOR for a CRUTCH when Exiting the Vehicle.
Most OVERWEIGHT people Put all their weight on the Door when Exiting the
I am not saying u are overweight , But I see this all the TIME at the MALLS.
Put a 2X4 on the bottom of the DOOR AND SLAM it Shut ONCE. This is what
they used to Do in The BUICK ASSEMBLY in FLINT, MI plant as the cars
came off the line
I'm not overweight and don't use the door for a crutch. I've never had
another car door sag like this. I may be wrong but seems like bad build
quality/poor design from the factory and poor quality replacement parts at
the dealer. I can't conceive of a door hinge lasting a year and half.
I've never seen anything that poor.....
I've thought about this description for a bit - but - i can't understand
what you're describing. Any chance of a revised description or a link to a
website for us dummies??
My 99 Blazer has the same issue. It is the silly hinge pins they use
that wear out. They would not be hard to replace except for the door
spring. See if you local parts store can let you borrow the tool to keep
the spring compressed when replacing the pins.
Yep the pins are WAY too small on the GM hinges. I just did both of the
front hinges on the newer 2002 we got, just to make sure they are OK.
They were not too bad yet.
If you want to make them a LOT better you can drill out the hinges and
use larger pins and bushings from a Chrysler, I also usually add some
extra steel around the bushings to make a larger bearing surface for the
pins. To lube the bushings the best thing I have found so far is
synthetic dry film lube. You spray it into the bushing and the carrier
dries up but the lube stays behind. Doesn't attract dust and grit that
Taking the spring out is the easy part. It is getting it back in that is
difficult. I use a small engine valve spring compressor myself. I have
the "correct" tool someplace in the shop someplace........
"Mike Copeland" < snipped-for-privacy@REMOVETHISpobox.com> wrote in message
Look, this is a common problem that doesn't need to happen at all for
anybody with just a little of what used to be called COMMON SENSE!
Here's what you do if its not common sense to you:
1. Oil the door hinge pins, bushings, and latches twice a year with oil!
This is what is considered continually lubed. Is this too much for you?
Thats right, only one step to the whole process. I don't know why people
can't do this. I hear squeaking binding door hinges all the time and lots
of people just can't figure this out. Oiling hinges takes 5 minutes at the
No oil means pins and bushings wear out, door sags down, doesn't line up
with striker post and latch and it all goes to hell and people blame the
This is just stupid negligence and there is no excuse for this happening. I
have never had a door sag on any vehicle I have ever owned and I have kept
some vehicles as long as 15 years.
I have a 96 S-10, 160,000 miles. No problem at all. Bought it used in 01
with 91,000 miles and the guy before me always oiled the hinges (I asked him
if he had always done this when I noticed fresh oil on the hinges which is
part of the reason I bought it).
Sometimes I think people have lost the ability to think and do anything at
all for themselves and just blame someone else instead for everything that
goes wrong for them as a result.
It may be common sense to you - but this is new to me. I've been driving
since the early 70's and I've had more cars than I can count. I've rebuilt
engines and re-doing clutches was a favorite and profitable pastime.
I've never oiled a door hinge before. While I have zero complaints about
the S10 engine, the rest of this truck is poorly built - both in design and
materials. I had the distinct feeling that the hinges were just another
screwup by chevy.
I guess I'll see how long a "lubed" hinge lasts - provided I keep the truck
I just last year changed the hinge pins and bushings in my 91 S-10. That
about 190k. People just don't know any more. I lube door, hood and tail
been using Mobile 1 silicon spray on them at every oil change since new. I
door locks and the ignition with a bit of dry graphite a couple times a
year. I found the Mobile
one works well on the door gaskets too. With age the gasket on the rear
and then the window wants to squeak on rough roads, this stops it. I use a
little bit of lithium grease on the latch assembly on both doors and the
tail gate latches. Owners manuals used to have this info in them, its just
second nature to me anymore, maybe because PM is beat into your head in the
service. Its no fun being broke down when hot lead is flying around your
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