U-Joints

Hammer and a well mounted vise. All I've ever used in 30 years of doing them. Never dropped a needle yet.

I'm sure the smart ass answers will come flying in, but they are easy to do with a small press. It's the proper tool, too. Here's a cheap one for

40 bucks.

Smacking them in and out with a hammer and socket isn't good for them, but it's done a lot. Even by people that should know better and get paid for it.

If you are replacing the factory u-joints I would _strongly_ recommend that you take the removed driveshaft into a drivetrain shop and have them remove and install new u-joints. I spent hours trying to remove the factory u-joints. My medium size vise would not remove them. I placed a socket on the end and ended up even hitting it with a sledge hammer. Nothing. The factory u-joints are mounted with an expanding plastic ring instead of a metal clip/ring. The easiest way to remove these it with a good torch. Save yourself the trouble. It cost me about $45 to have mine replaced (taking the removed shaft into th store) and this included the u-joints (3)!

A press is the proper tool but, I use a hydraulic point jack and a house :-) Using the floor joists as the upper part of a press and the jack to actually force the bearing cups out. I've never had a problem with this method (like lifting the house off of its foundation).

I always used a big table mounted vise and a set of sockets that I did not care about (I.e. cheap sockets). You can get a thing that looks like a big C-clamp, on one side is the screw and on the other is a short piece of pipe. You just turn the screw against the universal and the opposite bearing cup slides out of the yoke into the pipe side of the C-clamp. You can also get a small hydraulic press for about a hundred dollars from Harbor Freight this will do U-joints and ball joints etc. They are real good any order over $50 will ship for free and their tools are a fairly good quality. In fact I have an order arriving from them some time today... :-)

mark

. U-Joints snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ) chunked his 5lb dead blow hammer against across the yard....cussed his busted fanger... and spit this out in disgust.......

Are they always a bitch to remove and install?

Is there some kind of special tool?

~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~ KJ, you're bound and determined to fix something on that truck yerself ...ain't yuh.....

carry the shaft in to a machine shop and let them take care of it.....before you have an anoirism......or fubar the yoke.

Call around and find a "drive line" shop, and ask them for a price on replacing the joints if you buy the parts from them......you may be surprised at what you hear.

The worst thing that could happen would be that the guy on the phone would laugh at you. Fark him.....you don't know him.

besides........

we're all laughing at you ......and it don't seem to bother you none............

and.......

we know you.

marsh monster .

on the subjedt of U-Joints......

"KJ" started a comotion when he asked ........

Are they always a bitch to remove and install? Is there some kind of special tool? =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D snipped-for-privacy@not.hotmail.com (Steve=A0Barker) suggests.....

Hammer and a well mounted vise.

This is true but it has to be the neighbor that lets his dog water your tires every morning.....

the better auto parts stores with machine shop will do them if you buy the joints there. I paid about 15 dollars a few years ago for the labor.

Already have the joints I am going to replace. I was able to get a snatch of time to myself today to look up on

on how to do it. Seams like it will work. I got it out with a ballpeen hammer, but I knew I wouldn't get it IN that way.

Haven't busted ANY fingers on this project - don't know if you noticed I am rather over careful about these things. They way you described getting a tranny in my truck sounded like a neaderthal talking, no offence :-)

One way I have done this is to take the shaft out and bring it to the shop so they can supply the joints and do the labour. The factory plastic retainers was the worst for me. What I did was put the smallest welding tip on my torch head and consentrate the heat at the middle of the old bearing cap. The plastic melts and comes out on its own without the yoke getting too hot, then they can be pressed out with a couple of sockets and a bench vise.

the good man who owns the NAPA where I deal invites me into the shop to assist while he "shows me how it is done" and then . . . charges me . . . NOTHING. God Bless Him! (I bought the parts from him).

-- Regards Gordie

I've always said that a good parts man is worth his weight in gold. I've been with mine for 33+ years and he treats me great. In our area, parts places are everywhere (and I mean that quite literally). Incidently, I saw a tool ($99) in the Eastwood catalogue for changing press-in balljoints and universal joints.

.

Re: U-Joints Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Fri, Oct 10, 2003, 10:49pm (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ) Already have the joints I am going to replace. I was able to get a snatch of time to myself today to look up on

on how to do it. Seams like it will work. I got it out with a ballpeen hammer, but I knew I wouldn't get it IN that way. Haven't busted ANY fingers on this project - don't know if you noticed I am rather over careful about these things. They way you described getting a tranny in my truck sounded like a neaderthal talking, no offence :-) ======= =======

lol.....none taken bud...

saw your other post....glad to here it turned out well...

scrib ~:~