90 spirit won't run

How does the car act when the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor goes out? My dad is a mechanic that works at a starter/battery place. He works with a guy that's worked on quite a few dodge/chrysler vehicles, and he swears it sounds like it's the Hall Effect sensor. Wes

Or worse, fill a cylinder with fuel then fold a connecting rod when you start it up afterward.

It refuses to run. The Hall Effect sensor is a real possibility; that's why I asked you to clear the codes and then check 'em.

Naw, I just suggested it 'cause I get my jollies from making people do pointless stuff.

Dan's suggestions have caused me to invest SO much additional work on my own cars that I now take my car to the dealer for even the simplest things, like refilling the washer fluid bottle, checking oil level and tire air pressure.

NOT!!!! ;-)

Daniel J. Stern wrote:

Well, I get MY jollies from watching people refuse to take good advice, and then whine that the car is still broken :-p

Good point, and you may be right. But I'll counter that its not 100% conclusive. Starting fluid lights off a lot eaiser than gasoline, so a spark that is too weak, to early, or too late can fire starting fluid but not gasoline. In fact, a healthy engine might even "diesel" on the stuff with no spark at all.

Also, where does the timing signal for the fuel injection come from on that car? The Hall Effect sensor, maybe? Hmmm.... ;-)

maxpower wrote:

Yet another stupid question from Max. My, my, what a surprise.

For fifty points, can you tell us the source of the pulsed signal the ECM looks at to determine whether or not to supply power to the injector?

(Hint: It's the pickup assembly.)

False. It is perfectly possible to have the Chrysler 4-cylinder pickup plate continue generating a spark but fail to generate a sufficient or proper signal for the ECM to run the fuel injector. That may or may not be what's happening here, but it is certainly possible. You are behaving as though he is working on a 1964 Dodge Dart.

The fuel injector itself might be faulty, but it's probably not; they seldom fail on this setup. The "Replace parts until it runs" method is the sign of an ignorant, lazy, halfassed mechanic. You're not ignorant, lazy and/or halfassed, are you Max? Naw, 'course you're not. But then, how come you're making stupid suggestions like "Replace the fuel injector because you're losing fuel", instead of helping the OP to understand that the only way he's going to get his car working again is through systematic and proper diagnosis?

I suppose one possibility is that you are simply an asshole.

DS

The fuel injector itself might be faulty, but it's probably not;>>>>>???????? probably??? isnt that like second guessing??>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>But then, how come

come across the part where i said if all tests good replace the injector>>>>

let me f>

Ooohboy. Chilton books will get you nowhere in a big hurry. You need a factory book. They're not hard or expensive to get.

Good way to fry a fuel injector,,, AND ONCE AGAIN HE RUNS HIS MOUTH< ON PAGE 15 OF THE CHRYSLER PRINTED DRIVABILTY BOOK IT STATES T O GROUND THE WIRE AND CONNECT A JUMPER WIRE TO THE OTHER END

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...and he doesn't have a prayer of doing any meaningful system diagnosis by means of flash codes obtained by watching the "Check Engine" light blink.