94 Caravan - fuel pump won't run

Dec 17, 2004 30 Replies

I agree with D.S., trace the Red/White wire back to the battery. Looking at the 1991 wiring diagram, I'll bet it's very similar with the possible exception of a fuse instead of a fusible link. It should be powered at all times, not just when the ignition is on. The diagram shows that pin #3 has a red/white wire that goes back to a 22 gauge white fusible link, then changes to a 10 gauge red, then to a junction at a 6 gauge black (battery feed). Trace it back and find where you're loosing continuity.

It may have been mentioned already, but I can't find it in the old posts. Which engine is in this thing?

I'll print the wiring diagram and post which pins have battery voltage and which pins are powered by the ignition switch.

But I need to know which engine for your benefit so you don't go on a wild goose chase.

He's got the Mitsu 3.0

It's the 3.0 V6, 2WD.

Thanks for the help.

KC

Okay, a 3.0 it is... Pin 3 gets 12 volt battery feed via the 15 amp 'engine' fuse in the underhood power distribution center. This should be 12 volts all the time.

Pin 9 is 12 volts ignition feed (ignition switched) via the 10 amp #16 fuse in the instrument panel fuse block. This should be 12 volts with the ignition in the start or run position.

Pins 11 and 12 are power grounds.

It's supposed to be above 5 degrees this evening, so I'll try to get back to it. I seem to remember at least 2 other pins being switched

12V, though - maybe like 31-32, or 32-33? It sounds like pin 3 is the problem child, though.

KC

Pin 31 is 'Low speed fan relay'. Pin 32 is empty. Pin 33 is for 'cruise control'.

If pin 3 is dead, and the engine fuse in the PDC has no voltage on either side, I'd be checking inside the PDC for a broken buss.

The ignition switch has nothing to do with B+ voltage on pin 3 of the PCM.

Found it. The red/white wire feeding B+ to pin 3 of the SBEC was corroded badly about 5 inches from the SBEC. I was pulling on it to get a little slack to jumper it, and it broke. Green copper doesn't conduct well, apparently. Strange place to corrode, but there it was. I jumpered it to the correct fuse in the box (soldered, heatshrinked, and taped), and it started right up.

Thanks to all you guys for the help, especially Daniel Stern and aarcuda. Trying to fix electrical problems is next to impossible without the factory wiring diagrams. Plus, a logical approach to troubleshooting really helps.

Signing off for now KC

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