95 Caravan Transmission Problems

When was the last time the tranny filter andf fluid was changed???

It was overhauled about 4 1/2 years ago. It hasn't been changed since and never have had to add any.

That is the problem.

so i am up the river without a paddle? Too late to help it?

Get the trans computer code read to see what the problem is ... could be a simple sensor that has failed. Do not drive it far in 2nd gear as you risk major damage.

Bob

Bob,

How do I get that. Is that by turning the key on 3 times with the mileage indicator pushed in? That is how I got the o2 sensor failure.

Mike

No. While a fluid flush and filter change is definitely overdue, most likely the fault is elsewhere. You need to take it to either a dealer, or a transmission shop and get it scanned.

ANY time that the transmission goes into "limp" mode (which is what yours is doing) a code is set in the transmission computer that any garage with a decent scantool (and by decent I don't mean the $199 pieces of s*it that they sell in the auto parts store) can retrieve.

"Limp mode" is documented in your owners manual. Basically the trans computer when it senses a fault, will lock the trans in second gear. The fault can be minor - such as a failed speed sensor - or it could be major, like the transmission just fell out of the vehicle. The idea is to let you get to a garage. It is NOT to let you drive for a month on the freeway at

Incidentally, stay away from the chain store transmission shops. Find a local small business trans repair shop that has done a LOT of these transmissions. A very quick test when calling around to transmission shops to find out who knows their heads from their asses is to tell them you have a Chrysler vehicle, and ask them what kind of transmission fluid they would use to refill it. If the answer is anything other than either ATF +3 or ATF +4, hang up. If the answer is "Dexron plus a friction modifier called Lubeguard" then not only hang up but tell all your friends with Chryslers to stay away from them.

And when you do take it in for a flush, insist on seeing the drum of ATF +3 or ATF +4 that they are going to use.

By the way, a not-infrequent failure in these transmissions is the vehicle speed sensor, which is about a $30 part that takes about

Ted

Good points.

Are you saying that I can not get the code myself? I got the code to replace the O2 sensor, and fixed it. Would it not be there?

If it were the speed sensor and it was replaced, does the computer reset itself when it sees a new one in there?

Mike

Mike, Yes, no and yes in that order to your questions below. The key on-off-on three times is the engine computer....you need to go to someone who can read the transmission computer. Bob

Thanks Bob

Agreed -- change the fluid and filter, using a genuine Chrysler filter, genuine Chrysler fluid and genuine Chrysler gasket.

No, the 3-key-flick thing is for ENGINE codes only, and you don't have to have the mileage indicator pushed in to do it.

The transmission supplies diagnostic information only through a diagnostic computer hookup. Find a competent trans tech.

Next time how often should I change it (fluid and filter)?

Tomorrow I'm getting it hooked up for the diagnostic to find the codes for $36. Reasonable?

I'll let you all know how it goes.

Mike

Yes, *if* the diagnostician is competent and honest.

I agree with Dan. Even better if he applies the diagnostic fee toward the price of the repair. Good luck. Hope it is a simple input speed sensor. (If it were the output sensor you would have lost your speedometer.)

Bob

The general recommendation is to use the severe duty schedule. That means if your running ATF +3 every 15,000 miles. If your running ATF +4 I believe that they are 30,000 miles. ATF +4 is synthetic.

Your transmission was rebuilt after ATF +4 came on the market so the clutch material and seals used should certainly have been compatible with ATF +4.

ATF +4 isn't available in the aftermarket and is more than twice the cost of ATF +3 or was, last I checked. However it is SUPPOSED to be available in the aftermarket Real Soon Now. ATF +3 has been available in the aftermarket for some years now.

Ted

Well I have the results of the codes. I think it is not good. Here they are:

LR Clutch CVI 60

What do you guys think?

MIke

The guy reset the computer and after I start the car I pushed the O/D button so it does not go into 4th on the way home Looks like a problem there.

Mike

CVIs are all within spec.

code 36 and 54 are a pair, 36 will never appear without another code. 54 is being set because the input speed sensor is telling the trans computer 1 RPM and the output speed sensor is telling the trans computer another RPM and the ratio between them is not in the table of gear ratios that the trans computer knows about.

According to the manual, more often the cause is a slipping OD clutch. Your CVI for the OD clutch is within range so this isn't being caused by clutch wear, it's probably being caused by fluid pressure problems, although there are other internal failures that can happen that could cause this.

It might be possible a fluid flush and filter change would fix this. But that is only a possibility. If you pulled the pan and the filter was clogged with gunk that might be it. But it shouldn't be clogged with gunk, not on a 5 year old rebuild.

How many miles are on this rebuild?

My suspicions are on the rebuild itself. For starters, it really doesen't bode well that you wern't aware of the scheduled fluid change intervals - a competent rebuild shop should have made sure of this before you left. Also particularly with your specific trans, a rebuilder should have implemented TSB 21-15-95, changing the plastic accumulator to an aluminum one - if the manufacture date on the trans was between 9/1/94 and 7/14/95 - because this is listed as a cause of this code. Do you know if yours did?

Also you have the code 38 which indicates other trouble that could be unrelated - or not.

Also, did your rebuilder replace the selonoid body or is it on the original one that came with the transmission?

Faced with a choice between a fluid flush and dropping the money into a rebuild you are pretty much going to be forced into trying the fluid flush I think - but just don't get upset if it doesen't work. If it was my van I would absolutely try the flush and replace the filter - but of course, if it failed I'd only be out the money for the filter and fluid, since I would be doing my own labor.

If you are mechanically able, you can do this yourself as well. Allpar has a good description of the process.

Ted