Best Struts/shocks - 2000 Concorde 110K Miles

1) Without even following the links, the first question just doesn't even make sense without some idea of what you want. I really like KYB, but I also like a stiffer spring than the published rating. 2) Why do you think you might need to replace the springs? Are they sagging? Do you want a stiffer spring than stock? 3) Dunno.

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Thanks for the reply, Joe. Let me answer your questions:

you want.> Why do you think you might need to replace the springs?

Complete assemblies are available from Monroe, called "quick struts" part numbers are; RF- 171667 LF- 171668 Rear 171669

Expect to pay $100 or so more for the quick strut per unit above what the strut sells for individually. Saves labor and there are no surprise 'we need that part but can't get it today' issues. Problem is; they are Monroe, the KYB is a far better product. I've had too many instances of Monroe shocks that were noisy right out of the box.

Difference between a shock and a strut; a shock absorber is typically a stand alone part, a strut typically captures the spring (spring and shock together) and in the case of the fronts, serves as the upper steering pivot point akin to the lower ball joint.

Not always worn after 110K miles, they can rust and rot though, primarily the plates that actually support the top of the spring.

Be advised, the sway bar links bolt to the strut, they (stock OEM) seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.

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The entire sway bar or just some connector? What's the name of the part I should look up?

seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.

"Sway (or stabilizer) bar end link" - it is a rigid round bar about 1 foot long with a small ball joint on both ends - the ball joint stud on one end connects to the sway bar, and connects to a bracket that is attached to (pre-welded to) the strut on the other end.

Here's a photo of mine of two of them together:

They happen to be a Moog and a TRW version of the part (the parts stores sell them interchangeably in the same box under the same part number since Moog and TRW are the same company and for some reason continue to make both versions - the Moog (their "Problem Solver" line) has grease fittings and is hecho en Mexico, the TRW is made in USA.

jaygreg, look closely at Bills picture, the part on top is different than the part on the bottom, notice that the part on top has a hex at the base of the threaded stud. This makes installation and removal a whole lot easier because it gives a way to grab the stud with a wrench. The version on the bottom will spin miserably once the nut is cracked loose. better doesn't -have- to be a hex, two flats work well also. Stock IIRC is usually an internal hex for an allen wrench which will bust out when you try to torque past any rust and or just by the friction of the lock nut.

That's a good point you make.

It does have a much smaller hex to keep it from turning - on the tip of the stud (small enough hex that the nut is a free to slip over it). The size of that hex on the tip is 5/16" or 8 mm (not sure which they intended - probably 8 mm - *BUT*, 5/16" will fit and is slightly tighter (which is good in this case, because it needs all the torque capability it can have). Whichever you use - 8 mm or 5/16" socket or box end, it

*MUST* be a 6 point (vs. 12 point) if, as aarcuda points out, it has much corrosion at all.

As an owner of two Concordes (a '99 and a '98), I can say that mine came from the factory with the type on the bottom of the photo (IOW, TRW is the OEM supplier). As I point out above, it is not an internal hex, but an external hex - *BEST* wrench to keep it from turning while you loosen the nut is a 5/16" 6-point (8 mm will work, and is probably what it is designed for, but it won't fit as snuggly and provide quite as much torque before slipping as the 5/16" will - but, again, don't even think of using a 12-point).

OK guys... UPDATE! The fourth nut was loosed this AM. I'm ready to order suspension parts.

It looks like Joe and aarcuda#s like KYB struts so... I'll go with them. I guess I'll order plates as well but...

Q1) ... are there two plates for the front as well as two for the back? Q2) What the probability the mechanic will tell me I need new stabilizers? It may take me 24 hours to get them so... what's their approximate price? (Maybe I'll buy them on a rubber band and return them id not used. If Summit Racing will let me.) Q3) Just to recap... aside from Q2, I should order front and rear shocks plus (2 or 4?) plates?

The stabilizer or sway bars don't go bad. You can upgrade to 300M Special/Police sway bars, but as far as your original ones going bad - they don't.

Did I misread aarcuda?>> Be advised, the sway bar links bolt to the strut, they (stock OEM) seldom come apart without a fight, you may want to have them on hand.

Got it! What about those "plates"? Are there 2 or 4?

Considering that most cars just use rubber for the link ends I would think an end link that's built like a tie rod end or ball joint ought to last the life of the vehicle. Do they really wear out?

Yeah - well - that's what you get for thinking! LOL!

Seriously - As an owner of two Concordes and years-long participant on 3 different LH car-specific forums, I can say with complete confidence that they definitely do. Prolly 8+ times out of 10, if the front end is clunking on speed bumps/pot holes/etc., it's either the sway bar bushings or the end links (or both) needing replacing.

If by 'plates', you mean the mounting kits (bearing/mount assemblies), I would say definitely you should replace the fronts. The rears I'm not too sure about. I believe the rears are just a solid metal part since they do not have to rotate like the fronts do with steering. The fronts support the weight of the car while turning and have a bearing built into them and definitely should be replaced with the struts.

I am confident in what I say about the fronts, but am not too sure of how accurate what I said about the rears is (which is why I ignored your question on that earlier), so hopefully someone who knows the answer to that will chime in.

i replaced the right sway bar end link on the LHS last year due to the fact it was making a popping noise and jerking a little every time i turned the wheel. its still good and tight a year later but i checked the left one this weekend to see how tight it was and i has lots of back and forth play. didnt disconnect it and use a pry bar to check for play , but I'm sure after

169,000 miles it is needing a new one.

i haven't checked my sway bar bushings but i look on others peoples vehicles from time to time in the shop and they tend to shrink , shrivel, etc and pull away from the sway bar, causing it to make noise. real common on high mileage mini vans.

speaking of struts. i see quick struts are available for some LH bodies and not for others. first gen anyway. i haven't looked into 2nd gen.

but they are available for the first gen Concorde but not the LHS and Newyorker. I'm sure there is a reason for it but I'm not sure what it is right now.

What's worse, the ball-joint (or even Heim-joint) type get really, really, really NOISY as they start to wear out. As soon as any play at all develops, you get a "clunk" every time the end link has to go from tension to compression.