Cirrus brakes

Hey John, I have a 97 Cirrus with rear brake concerns. It was brought to me a couple weeks ago with a bad noise, when dis-assemble I found the right rear pads completely gone and wheel cylinder leaking, and of course a damaged drum. I replaced both rear wheel cylinders, both drums, shoes and all hardware. Within a couple of days she started experiencing a noise from the rear brakes, then she last the brakes. When I dis-assembled them, again I found the right rear wheel cylinder leaking and the shoes gone completely. It got so hot that it melted the rubber off of the wheel cylinder and the nylon insert of the hub nut. One of the retaining clips was missing and I assume that is what destroyed the abs sensor. Thought that maybe I left something loose and was my fault!! I replaced the drum and wheel cylinder and hub along with new shoes. Three days later the same noise is back, inspected the brakes and found everything ok so far. Noise comes and goes but is from the rear brakes, have you seen any big concerns with these brakes.

BTW the ABS light was and is on, came on after the first destruction of the shoes. Tried to read codes with aftermarket scanner but could not access abs module, fuses and all that checked out. Looking like it may have to go to dealer.

Also, all parts used have been aftermarket up to this point.

Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated!!

Kevin Fair snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com

Reply to
KEVIN L FAIR
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Reply to
philthy

yep went threw the same problem/process myself on a 95. In my case the rubber hose was NEVER kinked or pinched. From experience I knew the rubber hose was coming apart internally and that created a blockage which resulted in a very slow release. First time I just figured the wheel cylinder seals went bad but when I went to bleed the wheel cylinder I noticed very slow fluid coming out compared to other wheels. You'll most likely need to replace the ABS sensor also; I'm searching for one myself as I type this.

Randy

Reply to
sattech2000

Also you can do a pretty good job of testing the wheel sensor using a volt meter. It's been a while but I think autozone.com has a resistance spec and on ac you should have a small amount of voltage generated when you spin the hub. I compared reading from both my rears and easily determined the sensor on the exploded side went bad.

Reply to
sattech2000

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