Re: 77 Chev C-10 350 Eng stalls.

I have a 77 Chev C-10 with a 350 and four barell. It has a tendency > to

> stall after running about 5 minutes. I have to throw it in neutral > and gun it then it will go back to normal idel for a while. They do > the same thing again. I wonder if the EGR valve is at fault. > > Any ideas? > > I had the carb rebuilt and it runs fine otherwise. > I notice a slight bit of ruffness in the idle at 500 rpm which is > supposed to be normal hot idel speed. > > Something of a puzzle for me. The 77 Chev C-10 shop manuel seems to > suggest that the EGR might be at fault.

It could be. You need to check it. It should be closed, and there should be no vacuum from the source at idle. The pintle should also make a good seal when it's closed. You can test the valve itself with a known steady vacuum source. IE: any port that has steady vacuum when the engine is running...Or a vacuum pump tool. Disconnect the normal vacuuum hose from the EGR valve, and hook up the known vacuum. The rpm should drop, and you should hear a noticable difference. "Worse running" The main thing is to listen for a difference. If it does change, most likely the valve is good. Clean it, and reinstall. If applying vacuum makes no difference at all at idle, the valve is most likely shot and has a ruptered diaphram or a pintle that is not seating well. As far as the normal vacuum source, modulator, whatever... there should be none at idle, but increase as you give it gas. As long as it does that, it's ok. But it's possible you have other problems. Check fuel filter and flow, make sure it's not starving for gas. "don't forget the strainer in the tank..." Also make sure it's not drowning. Rochesters like to have the float stick...A recent rebuilt "should " be ok, but all it takes is a spec of dirt to cause this. If gas runs all over from the base of the carb, the float/ needle/ seat is sticking. Also you will smell the excess gas. BTW... Make sure no vacuum leaks. Check all rubber hoses, etc. MK

Reply to
Mark Keith
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I had this problem on my 327 (I put a HEI in) Chevy has a common problem with the ignition modular going bad once it heats up. If it runs fine when cold then like you said after 5 minutes dies and won't restart until it cools down I would changed the ignition modular. It's like 7 bucks and 10 minutes work. Try that, pretty positive that will fix it. Ask a good proven Chevy guy who knows older motors I am sure he'll give ya the same answer.

Reply to
BoDiddle32

You should make sure that you are only running six volts to the module. Twelve will cook the coil and it will act like your running out of fuel. The ballast resistor knocks down the twelve volts to six.

Reply to
<Rpike

I took the ballast out...no need for a 6 volt now

Reply to
BoDiddle32

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