Hi I have two humber super snipe one manual and one auto they are both 1961
I have the manual one refurbished , but the engine is gone in the auto one
and was thinking of putting a diesel engine in it ,I know I will have to c
hange the gear box but want to keep it auto any thoughts on what engine and
box to put in it thank you for looking
Regards P.J
Why bother with a smelly harsh diesel? You surely won't be doing enough
mileage for the fuel consumption to be an issue? And it's going to make
the vehicle worth less.
Have you worked out the cost of having the original engine fixed?
Fitting an entirely different unit isn't going to be easy.
--
*A bartender is just a pharmacist with a limited inventory.
Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
Hi yes I price to have the engine rebuild one price was EURO 3700 and the o
ther was EURO 5500 so not going down that road I think . The car that is fi
nishing is only doing about 12 mpg so I thought that if I fitted a simple d
iesel engine it would be a good option, won't be doing any thing with it ti
ll next summer so am open to all suggestions they are such a beautiful car
to drive
Regards P.J
What requires fixing on the worn engine? 5500 euros sounds an awful lot
unless special parts have to be made, etc. Have you looked for a decent
used engine?
12 mpg as an average sounds like it needs sorting - they were never
anything like that bad new.
--
*It's a thankless job, but I've got a lot of Karma to burn off
Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
That was the price for a complete engine rebuild new values so it could run on unleaded he would come and take out engine rebuild and refit engine all new parts it would be hard to pick up a good engine here in Ireland not a lot of humber super snipe here
On 06/11/2015 20:00, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
If it is running reasonably evenly and the problem is the fuel
consumption, then there is a good chance that the engine doesn't
actually need a complete rebuild.
I used to own a 3-litre Rover which had 350,000 miles on the clock when
I finally sold it and even at that mileage it didn't need a rebore or
new bearings. I only sold it because I bought a house and for a while I
couldn't afford a car - any car.
Big 6-cylinder engines don't generally have to work hard enough to wear
out mechanically. Valves might burn and carburation and distributor
condition might need attention but none of these require a major rebuild.
Then there is the question of whether the mileage covered can ever
return the investment of hardened valves and valve seats to run
unleaded. For relatively low mileages there is the option of lead
substitutes eg
http://www.redlineoil-europe.com/fueladditives/product.asp?product=Lead_Substitute_00074
which looks a bit expensive until you calculate it on the basis than a
bottle treats 100 gallons of fuel.
If you prefer leaded fuel because that is what the engine was designed
for, you can use real lead additive, eg
http://tetraboost.com
I would start at basic diagnostics - compression test and fuel burn
efficiency checks (eg with a Colourtune) and timing light jitter can
point to where to start. The other possibility that is often overlooked
is that the petrol you put in the tank might not all be getting to the
engine, but might be leaking slowly, through perished tubing or leaking
fuel pump or filter. Before assuming that the engine needs to be
replaced, I would do some good old-fashioned diagnostics. That way you
can tackle what needs repairing rather than taking the catch-all
approach that if you replace everything it must fix it. If you can't do
the diagnostics yourself there are still mechanics who can diagnose
faults without plugging a laptop into a car's electronics, so ask around.
Bear in mind that although a diesel engine might give more miles to the
gallon, it would need more frequent servicing and oil changes, and by
the time you have bought replacements for the current engine and exhaust
system and re-engineered all the fixings and mountings and perhaps
changed the gearbox and prop shaft if the current ones are not
compatible, you would need to do a huge mileage to recover the
expenditure by improved MPG figures. Also bear in mind that after such
a conversion, very few people who might buy a Super Snipe would want one
that far removed from the original specification.
Jim
Thanks Jim
The engine is completely seized was driven without any oil some years ago ,at least that what the guy I bought it of said.but will check out the one that is running for leaks and tune her up I was told that te most they did when they were new was 17mpg
Regards P.J
On 08/11/2015 15:27, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
I did once rescue a seized engine, though admittedly it was from a
Triumph Herald so a lot smaller than yours.
I took the head off and put a generous amount of penetrating oil onto
each piston and left it. On the second day I added some more
penetrating oil with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. Then the next day I added
more 3 in 1 and fitted a starter motor. I manually engaged the starter
then used a Stillson to turn the starter motor pinion the wrong way and
thus force the engine backwards a tooth or two on the starter ring.
Then I connected a battery to the starter motor which wound the engine
on that tooth or two and a fraction more before it stopped dead.
Out with the Stillson and I wound it back that tooth or three and a
fraction more. I put a bit more 3 in 1 on the pistons and connected the
battery again which wound it forward again until it stopped.
By repeatedly winding the engine back by hand then winding it forward on
the battery, over the course of a day or so I eventually got the engine
turned over one complete turn, after which the starter motor would wind
it over and over.
At that point, it is possible to take the bottom off the engine and
extract the pistons and check the condition of pistons, rings and bores
as well as the big ends, and work out what needed to be replaced.
Whether it works for you or not I can't say, but it could be worth a
try. All it is going to cost you is some squirts of oil and some time.
And if it doesn't work, you are no worse off than you are now.
Jim
Thing is that to fit an entirely different engine is going to need lots
and lots of parts specially made. So isn't going to be cheap either. And
you'll end up with a car which may be worth a great deal less.
I've overhauled many an engine in my time. If it is badly worn, the best
way is to remove it and strip it down. Then have any machining work done
as found necessary. Reassemble and replace. If all that is really needed
is a unleaded conversion, remove the head and send that to a specialist
(assuming it is OHV) It does depend on the condition of the rest of the
engine. It may well not require a full overhaul. To me, that involves a
re-bore and new pistons and a crank grind, as well as replacing any other
worn components like the camshaft and valve gear as necessary.
If you can't or don't want to DIY and need a pro to do the entire job for
you including removing and re-fitting to the car, fitting a different
engine in the same way is going to be even more costly. And you may find
a problem finding anyone willing to do such work anyway - due to legal
reasons.
--
*Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't*
Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
Hi Dave
Yes I can do diy on the car I could take out engine and refit . I could even strip it down but was thinking I would use it more often if it was fuel efficient , will have to think long and hard about it thank you for your help
Regards P.J
I'd think you'd have to do a lot of miles to recover the cost of the
conversion. And to engineer a diesel to be as sweet and quiet as a petrol
6 isn't going to be easy. There are decent modern diesels - but they also
have complicated electronics. Which may not be a simple job to use in
another car.
Is that 17 mpg for an auto? Of course any MPG depends on how it is used,
but I'd expect the cruising MPG on the manual to be at least 25.
--
*The statement below is true.
Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
If you are doing a large enough mileage to worry about fuel costs, why run
a classic car anyway?
Much more fuel efficient used modern cars are dirt cheap.
--
*It is wrong to ever split an infinitive *
Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
Yes we have lpg here ,think I might sell the auto one and keep the manual one , i never drove the auto one I say it would only do about 12 mpg not a big problem but as the engine is sized in it I just thought of maybe putting in a diesel one
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