SD1 V8 Crankshaft pulley bolt

Thsi is one of those posts that crop up weekly on the various car groups.

I have a well seized Crankshaft pulley bolt, I have read the other advice elsewhere about budging it and will try the various things suggested (bar turning it over on the starter as its out of the car!).

But I wanted to check that this bolt does unscrew anti-clockwise? Does anyone know?

I'm also a bit surprised that despite my full body weight on the thing the engine hasn't turned over.

Reply to
Liam Healy
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Yep, it's a normal right-hand thread, anti-clockwise to undo.

I'd be worried, not surprised! last v8 I had in that wouldn't turn was siezed due to water ingress. Good luck. Badger.

Reply to
Badger

it is normal thread, use an air impact wrench.

fwiw this engine should be turnable with two strong hands on the pulley, so yours must be seized solid.

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

Pity the starter's out - sometimes a spot of inertia can do the trick. FWIW the last time I had this problem - and it's so long ago I can't even remember what the car was - the procedure which finally worked was as follows: 1. Drop the sump. 2. Insert a tyre lever between the crank journal and the bottom of the block to prevent the engine turning over. 3. Apply watchmaker's spanner (a six foot Stilson) to the nut. 4. Extend the handle of the Stilson with a ten foot scaffold pole. 5. Self (then 15 stone) and friend (17 stone) bounced up and down on the end of the scaffold pole. It finally came undone. Those buggers can be tight!

Geoff MacK.

Reply to
Geoff Mackenzie

Yup. It's a 'normal' thread bolt.

That surprises me. They're obviously more difficult to turn over than a four cylinder, but a standard ratchet handle will turn over mine with only hand pressure. With a breaker bar a child could do it.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Its only been out of the car a couple of weeks, can it seize that quickly?

Reply to
Liam Healy

Panic over - I just went and applied some lateral thought. The reason it wont turn is because the flywheel is tighted up hard against the bolts on the engine stand. When I go into real hernia beserker wrench bending mode it does sneak round a wee bit.

Doesnt alter the stuck bolt situation, I just bent another wrench :-( Cheap one though.

Reply to
Liam Healy

I bent an engine stand once with a V8 pulley bolt - the crank was locked to the stand and I had a 40" long wrench on the socket with my 17.5 stone bouncing on it! It eventually went - with a hell of a crack, I can tell you! - but the rear vertical of that engine stand now has a bow in it!! They can be *extremely* tight, but will go with enough force. Badger.

Reply to
Badger

I have a clothes line pole which has fallen over - 7 feet long made of scaffold pipe - will try that. Bet my wife wont even notice its gone.

OT - but what can you guys tell me about this ebay item 8010898406 - if you have been following the saga of the sd1 v8 you know that 1) the wiring was v complex and I have probably ruined it getting it out, and

2) i need to lower the carb profile to get the bonnet closed on the mgb.

So I am in the market for something like this.

Pros cons? Don't touch with a barge pole ? Grab it? I know I need to avoid the double blower type of holley, but beyond that its not an area I have a lot of experience in.

Reply to
Liam Healy

Well, it'll work with your engine, but whether you will have enough clearance for the bonnet or whether you will ever get it set well enough to have a fuel consumption that you can live with is another matter entirely. Holley carbs are not renowned for their frugality. A better solution, IMO, would be to get hold of one of the costello cut-down injection plenums and go efi, or the proper carb manifold with the 2 carbs situated to the rear of the manifold side by side. For an alternative efi manifold, it ought to be possible to shorten the trumpets and get a std plenum reduced in height, with the throttle body re-welded onto the rear face, but there may be starvation issues to contend with on the 2 forwardmost cylinders. Badger.

Reply to
Badger

It's a thorny issue isn't it. There is EFi an system (Item number:

4586560667) on ebay at the minute, might something like this be a better bet, its off an SD1 or would I better off tying get hold of a newer range rover one ? Are they all as easy to install as each other?

I'm not losing sight of my priorities here, the key thing when I first planned this was to get it in and running, and worry about the bonnet/induction set up later. The ECU means that I might not even get it running hence the interest in getting this sorted sooner rather than later.

Reply to
Liam Healy

An update - its off. I hired an electric impact wrench, rated at 250 NM.

That didn't budge it but i hammered away for 10 minutes back and forward, perhaps it loosened it on a minute level. It had the added benefit of cleaning the bolt head up a lot - it was very recessed - then with the engine wedged to stop it toppling over the breaker bar loosened it - not with the satisfying crack I was hoping for though - it was much more serene.

Reply to
Liam Healy

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