Picked up a bullet hole in the driver's door after dinner last evening.
Looks like it was an aft to forward glancing hit, a gouge about 1.75
inches long by 5/8 inch high. Depth micrometer shows max depth of 2mm.
Some gray discoloration, probably lead, in the plastic substrate along
the bottom of the gouge. (Didn't stop to ask what weapon and ammo.)
I'd be tempted to try making the repair on the white car but the
metallic blue has me spooked and I've decided not to mess with it. Can
choose any body shop since I raised my deductible to $1K a couple of
weeks ago. What should the body guy be looking at and what kinds of
choices might he make. (and which ones do I want to refuse?) I know
that years back, a bondo fill and paint wouldn't have been OK since it
would shrink. What's good now--what's not?
Oh yeah, about how thick is the driver's door on the C5, about 9 inches
up from the bottom edge and 15 inches ahead of the back edge?
Bondo, or just about any plural component filler. It didn't shrink years ago,
the lacquer that was
being used had some weird affects on filler edges. It's used in production
plants on new cars or was
a few years back, now they just leave the seam or stick a plastic strip over it.
If I have a repair that tends to lift the edges I mix in about 10% marine epoxy
resin, hard, dense,
and won't lift or bleed color. I have some pictures of a C2 coupe being done in
ACI that is covered
in Bondo and they are an after market Corvette parts manufacturer. I was working
pump setups for mold lay-up and gel coat spray and was surprised to see that
much on a C2.
You just changed my mind on this. Off to the body guy in Chula
Vista store to get some modern stuff -- the two-part stuff in the garage
is at least 20 years old. Also out with the Dremel tool -- clean out
the junk and punch 3 or 4 small holes through to the inside to anchor
I can do this! Almost feel young again!
No holes required or wanted, just ruff it up with 24/36 grit and get all of the
dust out, you're
good to go. Actually the hole acts like a wick and the moisture it sucks in will
blow your patch
off. Never put filler on filler without roughing up the surface, it won't stick
to an untouched
surface. Work out the gouge until it's correct and you don't see the edges of
your work when you
sand the primer.
If you have an air brush get a can of the proper Dupla color and turn it up side
down an let the
propellant out, then with it well shaken carefully punch a small hole in the
bottom while upside
down. When it is under no pressure cut it open and put the paint in a new can
and get all of the
iridescent and flake out of the spray can.
Now with the airbrush at low pressure and a good fan dust on a light coat. When
completely dry wet
sand with block and 400, and repeat when it's dry. You'll soon see any
imperfections as you sand
the color coat and when they are gone sand with 600 and repeat. You should start
with a small spot
to just cover your work and get bigger with each sanding to blend into the
surrounding color and
know down the overspray. When you like what you see cover the entire spot with
clear lacquer and
sand when dry. Your last coat should be very thin clear lacquer larger that your
field of work. Wet
sand with 1000/1200 and buff then polish to your final shine.
That's what I've been doing all day, work 15 minutes and wait a hour before a
sand it out again,
trying to get him in the show tomorrow.
Now, back out to the shop and good luck,
Got your post in time to prevent a dumbshit. Cleaned out the 'gouge'
and got it filled.
My airbrush skills are equal to my welding skills (I burn holes, I don't
weld). However, good news is that our advertising & catalog retoucher
(now working with computers) used to do most of her work with an
airbrush. She says wait a few days for the humidity to drop (we are
doing hot and sweaty here) and she'll spread some primer on it then, the
I think we're gonna win. Thanks again..
Get your primer on long before you try to paint it with Dupli color. It's
lacquer and can use some extra drying time. To keep from making lots of over
spray use a template, don't mask it off with tape. Mount the template on
Styrofoam blocks to hold it off the surface to be painted about an inch. Then
spray straight at the spot you want to cover with a sweeping motion about a foot
away from the template. Just let the primer drift onto the spot and let dry.Sand
and repeat if any imperfections show up, you should be using 400 wet by the time
you're finished ready for color.
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