Who was it who mentioned Fram oil filters and dropping oil pressure?

Well yes it actually does. In my experience just about the only thing that will ever cause a filter to fail to work properly in any way is excessive dirt in the engine. Excessive grit and dirt in the oil will cause things like anti-drain back valves and bypass valves to fail to seal properly. Gum and varnish will cause valves like the pressure regulator or bypass valve to stick. When those valves fail then you have oil pressure problems. And of course a very dirty engine can plug the filter media. An excessively dirty engine can be the cause of a malfunction for any brand oil filter. I'm not particularly interested in which filter fails first under those conditions. Instead of fretting over that question it is a much more intelligent strategy to just keep the engine in a condition so that no filter can fail.

Yeah that is definitely correct - nobody wants a rattling and clattering when the engine starts. Fram is the #1 selling filter. Fram oil filters are on more engines than any other oil filter brand. One thing that tells me is that people are using them because they are not having the problems you say they will.

-jim

Reply to
jim
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote: I don't need to

I never needed to check a valve. I only did it in recent years because I was hearing so many liars claiming they didn't work. I haven't found one that doesn't. I don't get any start up clatter with a fram filter even when the car sits for weeks without running.

The only reason the drain back valve will fail is if excessive amount of dirt is holding it open. If the car has had good care that won't ever happen.

That would seem obvious only to the superstitious person. If the engine has a purolator filter and clatters on cold starts and you change the oil and put on a Fram filter - that would have fix the problem too. Getting the dirty oil out of the engine is what fixed the problem. Your superstitious beliefs have blinded you.

Reply to
jim

You do and it does. That's why the RECOMMENDED method is to pull the ECU fuse and crank 'till you get oil pressure before starting.

Reply to
clare

LOL, as does changing them at 5000 miles. All the experts agree that there is absolutely zero benefit to 3000 mile oil changes versus 5000 mile oil changes. There's been extensive studies done with oil analysis at different mileages, and even engine teardowns to measure wear. No benefit to 3000 mile changes--zilch. It's throwing money away to do too frequent oil changes. It's called "recreational oil changing" and it's done by newbies that lack any understanding about engines and oil.

That's why so many engines went to belts. A short timing chain works well and lasts a long time. A long chain is less reliable than a long belt that's changed periodically. The problem is that you don't change a chain and tensioner as part of routine maintenance.

Reply to
SMS

This is correct. They came under a lot of pressure for the lack of API certification, and they came up with some fantastic excuses about it until one employee accidentally leaked the real reason for the lack of certification.

Had Amsoil simply come forward back when everyone was talking about this and explained the reasons, they would have come out of the whole thing well. Instead they made up a bunch of excuses about the cost of certification, the fear that someone would steal their formula, etc.

In reality the non-API Amsoil products are fine for vehicles without catalytic converters, and even on vehicles with catalytic converters the worst that could happen is a slightly shorter life of the converter. The high levels of ZDDP are a good thing, other than the fact the the zinc poisons the catalytic converter.

To address the warranty concerns of customers, Amsoil came out with one product line that is API approved. It's an oil similar to Mobil 1, an oil that can legally be called a synthetic in the U.S. (but not in Europe) but that is derived from petroleum base stock.

Reply to
SMS

Zero benefit doesn't mean zero effect. Your engine will last just as long if you change at 5000, but it won't be as clean on the inside when it goes to the bone yard. And yes there probably is no benefit to delivering a clean engine to the wrecking yard.

If you weren't so retarded you would remember that you were the one that was worried about engine damage due to inadequate lubrication. I'm not the one who is worried. The smartest thing to do to alleviate your worries is to change the oil more often.

The fact is if you use the cheapest oil and cheapest filter and follow the engine makers recommendations for change intervals your chances of having the engine die due to inadequate lubrication before the rest of the car dies is close to zero.

Most of the stories I have read from Internet Fram bashers indicate to me that these idiots have either too much dirt in their engines or they have a mechanical problem (like a weak oil pump, or that the equipment that controls oil pressure is malfunctioning, or they have an air leak between the oil pump and the oil sump, or some other mechanical problem).

These people usually resort to Voodoo to solve their problems. Bashing an oil filter is not going to fix your car. And if the problem is an overload of dirt in the engine, then buying expensive oil and filter that advertises that it does a better job of storing the dirt inside the engine is a really extremely dumb solution. A much safer and more reliable solution is to get rid of the dirt.

-jim

Reply to
jim

Can you cite a source for this, Nate?

Reply to
hls

With no disrespect, can you cite a source for this statement?

Reply to
hls

Sometimes the OPRV loses tension and the oil pressure drops. I have seen Ford mechanics pull out the spring, stretch it,and reinstall on the old 390/428 engines. That would often bring the oil pressure back up to spec.

Reply to
hls

That is why I stopped buying them too. As I repeat, I never had a problem with them of any kind, but swimming upstream for no reason is not productive.

Reply to
hls

Doesn't this seem self evident? I didn't specify a particualr "certain" size, so the statement could be interperted to mean particles somewhere between the size of an individual atoms and the size of the earth. Don't you agree that there are particles so small that they won't damage your engine? And if there are such particles, wouldn't it be a bad idea to trap these particles in the filter, since they would tend to clog up the fitler element and restrict oil flow?

Most engineering decisions are a compromise. In the case of an oil filter, removing a lot of very small relatively harmless particles reduces the life of an oil filter without any substantial compensating benefit. The actual size of the these non-harful particles will be dependent on the engine design (bearing clearances, materials, design life, etc.). I am sure there is always a size of particle that could be considerd harmless (or at least does so little harm that it is insignificant).

It seems to me that most light vehicle (i.e., passenger car) oil filters target particles larger than 10 to 20 microns. 20 microns seems to the most common target for decent filters. Some filters claim to remove particles as small as 10 microns (but at a reduced efficiency). For most car owners, I think a filter that removes 96% of particles 20 microns or larger in one pass is sufficient. Removing smaller particles might reduce wear but I doubt the difference would be significant or cost effective. If you change your oil per the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations (not Jiffy Lube's!) and use a decent quality fitler, internal engine wear is not likely to be a significant problem area. For large trucks and industrial equipment, a more robust filter system may be appropriate. For these applications there are special oil filtration systems available to remove very samll particles. I don't think these are cost effective for typical car owners.

Ed Ed

Ed

Reply to
C. E. White

That is fine. "Saying I never had a problem with them of any kind and I don't use them" is different than saying "they will cause all kinds of problems including engine failure so I don't use them". The difference is one is honest and truthful the other is not.

-jim

Reply to
jim

The started out as an interest link but has turned into a whine and shouting match.

Facts learned:

Reply to
Licker

Reply to
Pubert

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This guy changed the oil and an oil pressure problem went away. Had he gone to the Dealership and purchased the OEM filter it probably would have had the exact same result. Fram makes the OEM filter for Subaru. the on difference is the paint on the outside.

He has a defective engine with low oil pressure. How did it get that way? Probably due to some action he took on the basis of some stupid superstitious belief. I met a guy that actually believed that pouring sand in the intake of an engine was good for it.

-jim

The millions of properly running engines that use Fram oil filters are not having problems.

Reply to
jim

How about "I *have* had problems with Frams in the past, which switching to another filter brand solved, and therefore I no longer buy Frams" - is that "valid?"

Or are you going to call me a liar, asshole? Or accuse me of driving a "defective" car? Just STFU and go away, you annoying moron.

nate

Reply to
N8N

Probably because your car has a base-up filter.

Or if it's a Fram filter, then it *NEVER* works.

Except the ADBVs on Purolators usually don't fail, and the ones on Fram filters usually *do.*

How is it "superstitious" to switch from using a defective product to using a good product?

nate

Reply to
N8N

You're an idiot. Please stop subjecting us to your idiocy.

nate

Reply to
N8N

I believe that the ad copy for any good preoiler has this information, but I don't have time to find an example at the moment. maybe on CM's web site?

nate

Reply to
N8N

You are ignorant.

Reply to
jim

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