You know you could have very easily and simply made a determination
about whether the filter anti drain back valve was working. I suspect
you didn't know how to do that or you didn't want to do that. Instead
you chose to speculate and conjecture about what was happening. There
isn't much evidence in your story to go on so I can see no good reason
to believe your guess about the cause is correct.
I suspect that I *did* determine that the ADBV wasn't working, and had
my diagnosis confirmed by others.
That's because you're an idiot, and like so many others you choose to
bloviate about topics upon which you have little first hand experience
but lots of book larnin' (and much of that incorrect or poorly
understood) and therefore you think you're a heck of a lot more
knowledgeable than you actually are.
To recap this whole sorry thread: Fram filters *demonstrably* have
several known issues, and are clearly of the cheapest construction of
all the "major brand" filters you're likely to see at your FLAPS (and
are at or below the quality level of most house brands for that matter.)
This is not arguable, it's fact. The only real question is "is it
good enough to be acceptable." I say, why take the chance when clearly
better filters are available at the same price? The fact that you have
continued arguing against this for over a week *proves* you're an idiot.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
This is correct. They came under a lot of pressure for the lack of API
certification, and they came up with some fantastic excuses about it
until one employee accidentally leaked the real reason for the lack of
Had Amsoil simply come forward back when everyone was talking about this
and explained the reasons, they would have come out of the whole thing
well. Instead they made up a bunch of excuses about the cost of
certification, the fear that someone would steal their formula, etc.
In reality the non-API Amsoil products are fine for vehicles without
catalytic converters, and even on vehicles with catalytic converters the
worst that could happen is a slightly shorter life of the converter. The
high levels of ZDDP are a good thing, other than the fact the the zinc
poisons the catalytic converter.
To address the warranty concerns of customers, Amsoil came out with one
product line that is API approved. It's an oil similar to Mobil 1, an
oil that can legally be called a synthetic in the U.S. (but not in
Europe) but that is derived from petroleum base stock.
All filters are DESIGNED to conform to manufacturer's burst pressure
specs. Doesn't mean every one off the line DOES. Poor quality control
can make a compliant design into a total disaster - particularly if
the design is to JUST conform to the specs.
Define quality and how it is fairly measured and then I'll get back to
you. If an oil smoking car with faded paint, crumbling interior
plastic, and weekly trips to the local garage qualifies as quality,
then Toyota is number 1.
Just like GM, Toyota has built some real POS cars. Only the Toyota
wackco believe otherwise. I have no problems with people buying
Toyotas (heck, in my immedaite family, more than half the vehicles are
Toyotas!), I just think all these claim of supernatural Toyota quality
and reliability are a bunch of hooey. You guys have spent too much
time listening to Toyota ads and reading CR. I won't argue that Ford,
or GM, or... have not built some real junk - they all have, but so has
Toyota. For instance - at least four times a year I have go help one
of my elder neighbors with her Corolla...seems like there is always
something going wrong with it (besides the faded paint, oil smoke, and
crumbling plastic). This is not some high mileage ancient Toyopet.
This is a Corolla, less than 10 years old, with less than 80k miles.
She gets the oil changed every three months, even though she only
drives it about 500 miles a month. It is not abused, no teenagers have
ever driven it. It is even protected by RNC bumper stickers....
As for your question....I think a Chevrolet Silverado is a better
quality vehicle than a Toyota Tundra. In fact I don't even think it is
On Tue, 1 Dec 2009 06:06:11 -0800 (PST), 1 Lucky Texan
That works if the reason the oil pressure is low is that the pressure
regulator is opening too soon. On some engines this is a very real
problem - particularly engines with "oversized" oil pumps and/or
engines run most of the time at high revs. If the pressure regulator
is "in use" most of the time, the spring flexes a lot and eventually
looses tension - thereby causing a lowered "maximum" pressure.
If an engine is low in pressure at low speeds, but comes up to
pressure at speed, this GENERALLY will not work. The exception would
be a pressure regulator that is so week or defective that it stays
partly open at all times, where tightening the spring MIGHT help close
the pressure bypass at idle.
I've seen sticky pressure relief valves, due to engine varnish, that
would stick open on occaision - the symptoms? - low oil pressure and
clattering valves at idle after high RPM running.
I've seen them fixed with Rislone, MMO, and once with a combination of
an engine flush and, believe it or not, Ford Friction Modifier for
differentials. That stuff gets sticky automatic transmission valves
moving very well too.
The engine was NOT going to be rebuilt - so it was worth a crack.
Flushing the engine with either Rislone or Bardahl 1(cann't remember
which any more) cleaned the engine out pretty good, but once in a
while the OP light would come on at idle and the valves would get
noisy. Had some friction modifier left from another job and put it in
the engine oil. After a few miles of driving the valve noise at idle
went away and the oil pressure stabilised.
230 cubic inch Chevy Nova
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