One of the largest oil change chains, Jiffy Lube, for instance, is owned by
Pennzoil-Quaker State, and as such
has an incentive to sell as much of the companys traditional
petroleum-based oil as possible."
This information is only partially correct. Shell Oil owns Pennzoil-Quaker
As long as I get the change in under 5000k, I have a paper trail to support
my warranty, and that is important to me. Although, on the Avalon, we have
now had it nearly three years and there has been nothing falling off, no
absolutely nothing to complain about. The warranty on this one goes 7/70.
Then you should be changing your oil every 100 miles. It will have the
same benefit on the longevity of the engine versus changing the oil
every 1000 miles, 3000 miles, or 5000 miles--no effect at all. But it'll
make you feel better.
"Recreational Oil Changing
The term "recreational oil changer" was coined to define people that
change their oil far more than necessary because they actually enjoy
doing it. It's easy to understand the psychology behind the recreational
oil changing. It's the visceral feel of the tools, the victory when that
old oil filter breaks free, the hot dark oil pouring out, the joy of
oiling of the gasket on the new filter, that new copper or fiber gasket
on the drain plug, the clean clear oil going in, and the sense of
accomplishment when you start the car, the oil pressure light comes on
for a moment, then goes out. For $8-10 in oil and parts, it's pretty
cheap entertainment, but if people would be content to do it only when
it provides some benefit to the vehicle it would be better."
But I suspect not for the reason you think. A lot of the problem
is the position of the filter. And lots of older cars had the filter
mounted where it drained easily. It's not due to the condition of
the engine. Remember, I had this problem with a brand new rebuilt
engine that ran great, and it never did it again after dumping the
filter. My engine was not a beater and the oil pump was brand new.
They filter ok, but like one said, who cares if the valve doesn't
worth a hoot, and it's a proven fact that they don't.
It's not a fact and your account of one experience is hardly proof. The studies
I have seen give the drain back valve on Fram a good rating. Your proof is one
experience against millions. Any filter's drain back valve will leak if a piece
of crud happens to prevent it from sealing. That possibility is most likely on a
freshly rebuilt engine.
And the drain back valve have nothing to do with the operating oil pressure,
which was the topic of this thread.
Everyone who's ever owned a car with an "upside down" oil filter knows
that Fram ADBVs suck. They don't work more often than they do, or at
least that was the case the last time I used one, 15 years ago.
If they can't manage to make something as simple as an ADBV work, that
doesn't say a whole lot for their overall quality, and I don't feel the
need to roll the dice with my engine when a better filter is easily
available for the same price.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
FRAG! I knew what I was thinking, but typed the exact opposite.
Base UP (as in a SBC and most other old school V-8s with an integral
filter mount) is "normal." Base DOWN (e.g. slant-six, Porsche 944, old
Ferrari V-12, etc.) *requires* an ADBV, either as part of the filter or
part of the base.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
OK. I almost asked which side of the filter you called base. FYI unless
you have a leak in the plumbing or oil pump, there should always be a
syphon back to the pan even if the filter has the inlet facing up. If
there is no check valve that keeps the oil from draining back to the pan
it will syphon back.
My personal experience is that I know for a fact that large fleets of
b-100 dodge vans with slant sixes were using Fram filters back in the
70's (early 80's too IIRC) without any problem. So I tend to believe
mechanics that I know were handling Fram filters every day versus
believing someone whose stated position is they never ever handle a Fram
I recall there was an issue with the slant six oil filters. Sometime
back in the 60's or early 70's they changed the size of the filter on
some slant sixes to a shorty version (IIRC trucks had an extra heavy
duty version). The problem was some people used the old long filters
thinking that would give them better protection. What happened when the
long filter was used in this application was the filter would have an
air pocket trapped in the top of the filter. That air bubble would be
compressed when the engine was running and the filter behaved more or
less normally while the engine ran. But when the engine was turned off
the compressed air bubble would expand and push the oil out into the
engine. That meant when you re-started the engine it need to push that
quart or so of oil back into the filter before the engine would get any
oil pressure. An incorrect interpretation of what was happening under
those circumstances may be how this superstitious belief about Fram
filters and slant sixes got started.
Most filters have an anti-drainback valve (or if not, then there is usually
one elsewhere in the system). On Ford modular V8, if you get a filter with a
marginal anti-drain back vlave, then you are likely to get chain rattle if
the engine sets over an extended period of time. The cam drive chains are
tensioned by oil pressure, and if the oil drains out of the system, it take
a heartbeat to build up pressure to the point that it can tension the
chains. During this period, you can hear the chains rattle.
Fram filter may be just fine 99% of the time, but I don't like the way they
are made. I don't like the paper end caps, the sloppy gluing, the crummy
bypass valve, or the hard rubber anti-drain back valve of the standard
orange FRAM filters. The higher priced Tough Guard filters are better, but
cost more than better quality Motorcraft or Wix filters.
You can find plenty of horror stories regarding FRAM filters. I am sure you
can find some related to other brands as well, but I think FRAM filters have
generated more horror stories than all the others combined.
I don't buy the compressed air theory. I've seen filters installed at all
sorts of angles. They all get air in them when the engine is shut down.
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