Subject says it all, almost. Fixing the paint nicks before winter, and
noticed rust bubbles on front edge of hood, inside and outside. Dealer
says SOL- my rust-through warranty (5 yrs/100k) expired 8 days ago.
Anybody have any luck getting Chrysler to kick in part of repair cost
after warranty, since the damage clearly started in warranty? Stupid
design for hood- the way the inside layers come together, there is no
way for it to NOT trap crap in there.
Am I looking at buying a new hood come spring? I know from experience
that there is no point in trying to repair rust in multiple metal
layers- it'll just pop out again in six months.
My '04 2500 is rusting all over. Same basic thing, crappy paint (way
too thin) and a total lack of any consideration towards the buyers.
The big question is "How much will this hurt them in the future when
we (who are totally dissatisfied with their vehicles) don't buy from
them, and tell others our sad stories."
As to repairing it, you need to put it on a lift, and look at the
entire chassies. I'd guess your hood is just the beginning of the
story, that there will be substantial rust underneath, too.
Too many vehicles (American made in particular) aren't designed with
longevity in mind; in fact, it seems like they're designed so that
they WILL start to rust and fall apart. Take pickups for example, and
not just Dodge. Rusty wheelwells as far as the eye can see. And not
to mention doors: folded over at the bottom (don't know the technical
term) with poor drainage/ventilation. Practically a breeding ground
for rust. Another example is rear bumpers. They're designed in such
a way that water and other garbage gets up in there but can't drain
out. Why not design the bumper so the bottom flange is on a 15 degree
slant so that stuff can run out of there?
I owned two vehicles that the paint started to peel one was a Dodge and one
was a Chevy. The Chevy was fixed under warranty and I had the dodge
repainted by a local body shop after the warranty expired. It seems that
both manufactures had an issue with the paint. Speaking with the local body
shop, he mention the problem was not the paint itself but the primer. The
primer and paint were reacting causing the paint to peel. The problems
started when the manufactures switch to a a low VOC (volitale Organic
compound) type primer and paint.
MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) was used in a lot of paint thinnng and to prepare
surfaces for painting prior to the problem. The US government started a
campaign to reduce MEK use in the US due to it being listed a VOC and it
potential health effects. I hace seen the effects of the US government
wanting to ban the use of MEK. I worked in a chemical plant that had a unit
that produced MEK that was shutdown due to lack of sales after the US
goverment started bannng its use.
Despite the goverments attempt to totally ban the use of MEK, they still
allow its use in manufacturing of products such as resins, plastic and some
others. One of its biggest use prior to the attempt to ban it was in paint
Uh, it ain't a paint issue. It looks fine, other than typical sloppy
edges. It is a rust issue, coming from inside the seam at leading edge
of hood. A bad design there traps road crud. Nothing short of potting
that whole joint with epoxy would keep the crud from starting rot in there.
Actually, if the material in the joint was properly treated, it
wouln't rust in there - and PART of that is a primer issue. They don't
USE an actual primer any more - the metal is just 'electro-koted" -
basically etched, (generally a dip process) and then the part is
electrostatically painted. Nothing gets into the joint area to seal
and protect it, so it rusts from the inside out.
Well, if anyone cares- as expected, Chrysler basically told me 'too
bad', after I wasted a couple of phone calls and another trip to dealer
to have the rust 'evaluated'. Apparently, even if I had noticed the rust
before the cutoff, the 'perforation' warranty only applies if you can
see daylight through the hole. Bubbled paint on both sides of a 2 or 3
layer section, is not considered a perforation.
At this point, since salt season starts in a couple weeks, I guess I'll
let it ride till spring, at which time the front edge of hood will look
like lace. I stopped by a real body shop, and found that I am looking at
$600 or more to have a fresh hood painted and installed. So unless I can
find a non-rusty same color hood in a yard somewhere for less money, I'm
probably gonna be walking bowlegged at some point. Apparently even the
used hoods are expensive, this being a crash part and all, and prone to
rust up north here. Maybe I can find one on vacation down south, if I
drive instead of fly next year.
Or do like we did on my daughter's Neon. I picked up a "bra" from a
heap at the wreckers, greased the good and slipped the bra on. Pulled
it off and re-greased it a couple times over 2 years.
Power bulge Neon hoods were not easy to find at the wreckers, and for
the first while they were not available from the aftermarket - and the
regular ones would not fit over the TwinCam engine.
I'd say head to the American Southwest and hit every wrecking yard
in a 50 mile circle from wherever you bunk down - almost guaranteed to
find a rustless one the right color - might have "rod rash" though.
I got a dent in a nasty spot on the hood of my PT cruiser - I'll be
checking wreckers in the spring to see what's available. I can buy new
for the same price as used (chinese import or whatever) but if I can
get one I don't have to paint it saves me a fair amount - and the
factory paint is generally better than a repaint.
Yea, a helper is useful! Just buy him a beer when the job is done.
Around here, the town recycling center accepts metal for free. Never a
problem to dump old auto parts (they sell it for scrap and make money
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