Bulkhead repairs (series)

Hi all

Next job on the IIA list ... I have a tatty bulkhead, by Tatty i mean

1) the bottom of the pillar on the passenger side has rusted, a plate has been welded on top of the rust. 2) both sides footwells have been welded with plates, but this is on top of rust, i.e. some slacker didn't cut out the rot before welding. 3) holes at the top hinge (front) where rust has come right through from the inside

I have top-hinge repair panels and footwells. I also have no idea how to weld, but I'm hoping a mate will do it in exchange for some computer fixing. I think I'm going to need pillar panels both sides too.

Is this a really big job? what can go wrong? Is it best to do in situ, or is it better to get the bulkhead off, weld it up and put it back on?

Also, what if my Bulkhead is far gone to fix? Is there a way to tell? Any pointers appreciated. TIA spozza

Reply to
Spozza
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Hey hey......... fancy a competition to see who can weld theres up first ??

Admittedly I have made and fitted my footwells already but you seem to have an adavantage on the door pillars, I have none on mine, save for the tattered remenents of a few pieces of steel !

It will go back together !!

Reply to
Igundwane

Do one side at a time.

Get new door hidge bolts / screws and new captive nuts.

Mole grips are a god send. If you haven't got some then get some... one of those multipacks you can get with 3 differnt sizes is a good buy.

Chances are the footwells will need doing...try and cut the existing ones to allow the pedals to be left in (assuming the metals still good here , as it it usually on the ones I've done.)

When but welding in repair pannels do a little grinding at a time to get the fit right... tack weld, then seam weld then grind back for that nice smooth finish, this is mainly on any bulhead repair pannels around the edge of the air vents and windscreen mounts.

Clamp up the door pillar such that it allows you to offer up the door.... check everything is true before tack welding , then recheck before running seam welds.

On the subject of door pillars...more often than not you will also need the support which bolts to the outrigger and then welds to the bottomn of the door pillar as on all the ones I've done these rot like pears.

And if you ain't already seen my recent escapade of this nature then take a peek here.....

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Do it in situ then you have all the right datums to work to..if you do it off the vehicle it'll be a mare to get true.

If you do all the above and it doesn't fit I've a nice big hammer here.......

Lee D

-- Project Percy - Jaguar 4.2 and Auto in to Series IIa 88 see it @

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101Ambi '76 / IIa - Percy '64 / Rangie TD '90

alt.fan.landrover hall of fame -

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Reply to
Lee_D

Heh heh, I'd loose any competition to do with doing anything quickly :)

I dunno if its better to have a bodge or just lots of rust, I guess its got through a few MOTs due to these untidy repairs, but it means that my grider will have more work to do...!

Reply to
Spozza

Thanks Lee, you don't happen to have a part num & a place where i can get that support peice for the outrigger do you? I see the pillars on Paddocks, but I can't for the life of me see the bit you describe

Ta Dan

Reply to
Spozza

Door pillar bottom bracket, LR60BL LR60BR (left and right)... Paddocks price £8.50 each

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There are a couple of bolts from the cill into this bracket that are an arse to get out due to access..spray plenty on penetrating oil on now to give them time to get nicely lubricated ready to come off.

HTH,

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Just to add that if you are intending to keep the door pillar in tact there are around 8 or so spot welds that attatch the foot to the pillar just to make things interesting.

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

All necissary bits (and possibly a few unecissary bits) are now on order from Praddocks

No turning back now!

Reply to
Spozza

You know it makes sense.. the trouble with doing quick and nasty jobs is you lower your standards and end up with a Cheap and Nasty landie, then get demotivated then end up either binning it or selling as an unfinshed project.

Now while your waiting for the bits you need to be buttering up your welder friend bit time and possiblt romoding wings and those cill bolts / cills ready to access all the bits. It's amazing how long the apparently simple bits of the opertation can take.

Don't forget the more attention to detail on the measuring and clamping up pannels the better the finish.. No one likes a Landie with wonky doors... chances are the locks may need some adjustement on the refit to so also a good time now to lubricate those nuts for the lock mechanism.

Final tip for the day... If you've not got an impact driver then get one or beg / steal / borrow one.. the screws for the door hindges can provide hours of entertainment...may be woth drilling the old bukhead assuming you may be replacing this bit to afford access to lubticate the captive nuts. Usually I find it's the last bolt on the door hinge which refuse to play ball..doesn't matter what sequence you do them in.

Good luck and Just start thinking about what colour your going to paint it after and how nice It'll be again!

Lee D

-- Project Percy - Jaguar 4.2 and Auto in to Series IIa 88 see it @

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101Ambi '76 / IIa - Percy '64 / Rangie TD '90

alt.fan.landrover hall of fame -

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Reply to
Lee_D

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