86ish D150 225 goes 1/2 a block then dies, won`t restart until cold

Perhaps you should take that reading class.

:-)

LOL

Its a leakdown tester, something you would know if you..... well if you knew. But you don't.

Perhaps you should find out what tool you are talking about before makign a complete ass of yourself.

Yeah, which would put it far higher than either one of yours.

YOU claim the following:

My point is, she CANNOT "get by with that for a while" without risking serious damage to the cylinder head. Try reading before you make an ass of yourself.

No noise at all, despite having a 4.125" stroke that would have the rod slapping the piston skirt? No noise at all, despite cocking the piston in the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of friction in the bore?

Yeah, ok... sure. We'll chalk this one up to your overall credibility.

Perhaps then you would write more clearly. Let us know when you've completed it.

Why from you, Tom.

Rach mentions a dead cylinder and you start talking about using air to change springs and seals. So explain how changing the springs and seals are gonna help her dead cylinder?

Btw, you missed where she decided to work on the other truck because of the dead cylinder in this one.

ROTFLMBO!!!!

Gee, Tom, haven't you the cerebral cellular matter to think of:

1) holdng it by the insulating boot

2) holding it with a pair of insulated handle pliers

3) using a remote starter button

4) shorting the solenoid relay with a screwdriver

5) having a friend or loved one crank the engine

?????

Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . .

If a wet cranking test shows no improvement, then the head needs to be pulled anyway, so why drag out all that paraphenalia just to have to put it all back up?

And intelligence / social interaction isn't your thing, among others, including reading.

IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so, why don't you buy her a few hundred yards of hose, a huge compressor to supply the pressure / volume at that distance and have it all shipped internationally to Canada . . .I'm sure she'll appreciate the gift. Alternatively, you could just send her a huge extension cord . . . . .

Once again Max, you got it wrong. It is called an Air Hold Fitting and a set costs around $6. A leakdown tester is more in the price range between $60 and $300 and would do no more for her. A leakdown tester can show you when something is just starting to fail as well as help you determine what is failing but this cylinder already has failed so here it would be a huge waste of money when a $6 dollar tool can help her find out what failed just as easily at 1/10 or less the cost. Now who is the one that doesn't know.

I must say Max, you do make me laugh when it is you are once again the one doing just that.

Sure battery boy, whatever you say. I guess that goes along with your cold air from a compressor burning valve seats.

That is correct. It will help determine if a valve and which one (if not both) have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to backfire or burn an exhaust valve.

That is not what you said so perhaps you should write more clearly. The point is that since the cylinder is already down to 50lbs, the damage has already been done and she has made the claim that the engine is a throwaway anyway so who cares about additional damage and with only 50lbs of compression, I doubt it will get much worse now anyway. Once again, you accuse me of doing what you are doing right now.

Hahahaha, now that would depend on where it bent and how much, wouldn't it.

Once again, that alligator mouth overruns your hummingbird ass.

The sad thing here Max is that between this and the Caravan thread you are rapidly losing any possible credibility you thought you had but don't let that worry you since you don't really have any anyway.

Once again Budd, you see only what you want to see. I gave her a description of what the tool was intended for so she could say it to the salesman if she wanted to buy one. I then went on to explain how to use that tool to help her diagnose what failed on that cylinder. It had nothing to do with changing seals or springs but feel free to show me exactly where I said to do either one or is this just another one of your all too typical false accusations? BTW, why are you replying to me?

But you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. Do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20,000 volts. Does she already have a remote start button? Does she know how to hook it up? Is the insulation on that wire still good? IF she is too far away from the metal, it will arc back to her anyway. The timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. It appears that you are the one that just posts to argue.

And yet, far more than you seem to be sometimes.

Why? Since she claimed this to be a throw away motor, if the problem is just a burned valve, who cares. Let it run that way until she gets rid of it. If the problem proves to be something else, she may not want to depend on it as it may completely fail and get her stuck.

And this from the one who uses the excuse of not being politically correct as a defense for treating others like crap.

You are kidding, right?!?!?! You hardly need a huge compressor to do this and if she intends to repair the vehicle then she will need to more it to an area where she has tools and light anyway.

Quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore, Tom.

No, Tom, that would only be you since you've posted your assaults directed toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to you in a month or better from me.

Really? I'm not the one giving useless advice to a novice mechanic.

Obviously, not you, that's for certain.

And you completely missed or ignored her post about not swapping engines now and the one about the location of the truck.

It's not an excuse, Tom, I'm not politically correct and you will always get from me what you dish out.

I see English is still not your forte' . . .but I have to assume you mean she needs to "move" the vehicle. Unless I'm mistaken, this is the truck stuck in deep snow mentioned in another post, so moving it would be difficult if not impossible right now.

Again, you ignore previously posted info and plunge forward with your crap expecting everything to be as you say it should be.

Go back to you assaults and insults, Tom. It's truly your calling in life.

That's OK -- when I explained what I wanted, he knew right away. I almost always get help from the manager -- he is best at reading my mind :-)

My late hubby always ordered his parts for the company he worked for for

18 years -- the biggest used parts place in Gatineau (several acres and multimillion) -- he was very honest and well liked -- they all take care of me like family -- his company and his contacts. I am very lucky.

...and since I have to ask for parts in English, when I can tell him what it's for, he knows what I mean If I knew the name of the part, it probably wouldn't help either Rach

Hi everyone!

Thank you so much for your help.

I have a lot to go through -- which will keep me busy -- and I added a formatted version on my website so I can go print it at the library

I also figured if anyone had similar problems in future it might be a reference for them to check

Here's the link:

I'll keep you all posted

rach

Hi! Great news -- I complied the thread as some of you know, and the engine advice will be very helpful now and in future. It is now running. I did get some help from my new boyfriend (who shares renovation skills with me) and used to do some mechanics 25 years ago or so.

Being prepared helped a lot. We had balmy 14 degree celcuis temperatures this afternoon so I payed him to take the afternoon off to help.

Turns out that one of the first things I changed (EGR valve) had a lot to do with it. The EGR solenoid was working back last fall when checked, but after checking the charcoal cylinder, then checking pressure again, he noticed the vacuum to the carb was almost non existent -- seems that although the EGR valve was good earlier, its connections were getting more and more corroded -- turned out to be a poor electrical connection from the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve.

There may have been other contributing factors resolved during the process of replacing almost everything else...

Now I am going to get the other 1986 safetied asap then sell this one (after taking off the good parts).

Thank you again all for your help.

I could NOT have done this without you, and would probably given up hope.

Rach

p.s i have just updated the web page accordingly and leave it there in case anyone else needs similar help.

Why spend so much time (let alone $6) on dragging an air hose out to the engine if its already failed? You defeat your own argument here.

Yeah, you made thta observation before, and I wasn't taking issue with that. Maybe its that reading problem you have?

Yup, and it wouldn't take much, because its not going to bend "just a little bit" once its started. On a stroke that long its going to club that rod to death, making all sorts of noise in the process.

Once again you've got no facts to back up you inane claims, just stupid colloquailisms that mean nothing and are irrelevant.

Sadly, its getting easier to drive you to that point.

Damn. all this time I thought it was really a bad hub cap gasket that was the problem.

beekeep

good one!

Hey I just updated the page

you might want to take a look

just 25 minutes -- not a lot of work

rach

LOL, is that all you got? I guess its better than admitting to error.

It is probably more in line with your writing ability.

Care to back that one up?

Once again, you make claims that you can in no way back up.

You are the one making claims here and have yet to back up a single one. I know you and Budd like to accuse the other one of doing what you are to try and throw the other readers off as to who is screwing up but you do it so often that it really doesn't work anymore.