Battery follow-up ..

13 seems a bit low, especially for a DC product. What RPM was the engine running at when you tested it?

"TBone" wrote in news:iBC0e.47003$nZ.1958456 @twister.southeast.rr.com:

Truck was just started after sitting for an hour or 2 in 20 degree weathers, so in effect, it was a cold engine... so it was around 900 RPM's ... I ran the test for 2 straight minutes, and doing so, the RPM's drop to around 750 which is normal *for me*. Multimeter dropped a few times to 2-

3, but bounced right back up in that 2 minutes.

Running at 900 to 1000 RPM the alternator/regulator should put out 14.2 to

14.5 volts. I would check your meter with known good vehicle charging it's battery (you can mark the face of the meter with a grease pencil if you want). Or check against known good battery not charging (about 12.5 volts).

If your output is still low I would check that the alternator belt is properly taut and not glazed (this would cause slipping - you did mention that the meter dropped 2 to 3 volts).

If that is OK I would then check the regulator - it's probably integral to the alternator. Someone more knowledgeable about specifics should answer that procedure.

Regulator function provided by engine controller (PCM ?). Twelve volts to alternator field from shutdown relay. Field switched to ground by voltage regulator within PCM.

Seems a tad on the low side.

Now you have me thinking that if you had some sort of high current draw = on your battery & your charging system is not charging the battery = correctly, the high amp draw on the battery would deplete the electrolyte in the battery also.

But! If that were to be the case, at some point you wouldn't have enough= of a charge left in the battery to start your vehicle. So! I think that = shoots that down.

Look forward to bringing it in for service, (can you qualify for a home = equity loan?) you may need it to facilitate total repair of this problem. ;-)

1997 SFA 60920 1998,1999,2000,2001,2002,2003 AMA 602785 Due to E-Mail spamming bots my reply address is incorrect. Add a "-" between mr and wizard This is what we have to do to prevent "Spamming?" Sucks doesn't it?

Did that on my friends car. It had a proper reading there, so I don't think it's the multimeter showing incorrectly.

I just changed my belt about 3 months ago as I had this very problem. No problems to report on that repair. It's still possible, but unlikely.

Yuk. That this point, it over my head.

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.

Kurt wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Dammit. That's my worst fear. I hate my dealer. I think I only get 2 of the "5 star service award" when I go there. .

Probably time to find a new place to take my truk.

Anyway, thanks to all for assisting in my issue. You're replies are much appreciated.

1) check and CLEAN both ends of the battery cables 2) check the voltage at the alternator battery terminal (truck running) 3) check the voltage at the battery (running) 4) IF you ahve a battery tester, load test the battery - free at most parts stores - IN the vehicle - unhooked. 5) Report these figures back to board, they can help THEN.....