Boiling a battery

No shit, and this is what I was saying all along. The voltage however, DOES NOT have to be measured across the terminals in this case because as your examples have clearly demonstrated, the voltage will not be higher at the battery than at these other measurement points and we are looking for an OVER VOLTAGE condition at the battery. As for the battery being shot, that possibility has been substantially reduced as the OP indicated that this condition is occurring with more than one battery so unless both of them are shot (although still a possibility), the problem seems to lie elsewhere.

What a retard.

no, numb nuts

we are searching for the cause of over CURRENT thru the battery

What do you think could cause that Gary? The only thing that can cause over current thru a good battery at full charge when the alt is operating is excess VOLTAGE and if you don't know that then you have some studying to do. Where he took the measurements will have the highest voltage and since it is within spec, over voltage is not the problem at the time of measurement because there is no way that the voltage at the battery could be higher than where he took the measurement. Now a bad connection in the VR sensing wire could cause it to spike up the voltage for periods of time while driving which would cause excessive battery current or it could also be something sucking power during non-use periods causing the battery to deep cycle which would also cause excessive current flow during normal charging for a standard automotive battery but neither one of these conditions are going to be found by where you take the measurement. Sorry, but you are still wrong.

Since it is you who keeps responding to what I say with these childish actions, the one who is actually jumping through the hoops here is you, LOL, and what makes it funnier yet is that you don't even know it.

What kills me is that he knows that, because he suggested it, but he keeps going back to how much voltage the VR is putting out via the alternator. I keep telling him its not the voltage, but if the voltage is continued beyond when its needed, i.e. current pushed in when no demand is present.

But hey, its Tbone.

you haven't figured it out yet, have you ?

Max and I derive great pleasure from watching you make an ass of yourself

for instance, there's a bet on whether you have the restraint NOT to reply to this post

maybe if we expressed it in % ?????

Express it any way you want to, you still got it wrong, LOL!

LOL, every time I read this from you, it just makes me laugh harder. How exactly is the VR going to know if the battery needs charging or that the headlights and or wipers happen to be on in an older vehicle???? The point Maxi, is that it can't and fortunately, it doesn't have to. All it needs to do is keep the voltage with a given set of parameters and the system will take care of itself, including the battery.

Sorry Gary, but you seem to be the one having a hard time figuring it out. I thought that the header may have tipped you off but here you are again, LOL.

Well if that were true, it really shows the level of intelligence that you and Maxi have and the fact that the two of you keep dancing (like in the gravity thread) more than proves how low it really is.

Why would you make such an idiotic bet? What would be the purpose of me wanting to restrain myself. It is obvious that you can't do it but as usual, this is boring so fell free to have the last word in this lame takeoff thread but at least make the dance more entertaining for me next time.

He said he used "another 3 year old battery". What is the average lifespan of today's batteries? Just under 3 years - so the chances are pretty good he has TWO bad batteries.

And the ONLY two things that can cause overcurrent through the battery with the engine running and the battery being charged (which it obviously is at 14.2 volts) are too high a charging voltage (which it is not, at 14.2 volts) or a defective battery.

If the voltage was below 12.6, I'd agree you might POSSIBLY have a load problem - but it would, in my opinion, have to be significantly lower - like 11 or so.

Hey T-Bone - you show me where I am wrong.

This is a bit basic but is the battery securely mounted so that it does not bounce around? My jeep had the hold-down bold rust away and the battery would nearly tip 45 degrees toward the engine. unlikely but worth a shot to ask...

-Jerry

Sorry to have caused such grief here at the NG. My son just called, the car wouldn't start on it's own, but jump started OK. Tomorrow I'll bring the car home (I'll be putting a new battery in it for the drive home as the second battery (from my father-in-laws Ram Charger (360 CID)won't start the car now) and start testing some of your solutions. I plan on monitoring the 1. battery voltage (across the terminals), and 2. the "sense" lead voltage (at the alternator, using the alternator ground), on the trip home, on two different digital volt meters. It's about a thirty mile drive, so something should show up. Anything else I might want to check for on the drive home. On a passing note, would using the old battery for the drive home be a better idea, and keep the new one incase I need a jump start.

Thanks