I'm going to change the fuel filter in my '06 Dodge 2500 Cummins soon. I
have not changed this before. I did get the advice not to tighten it a lot
when putting it back on. (The factory oil filter was put on with a cheater
pipe and was fun getting off.) I don't know how easy/hard this is going to
come off. I have some of those soft strap things that I might try once I
get in there and see. IIRC, there's a nut shaped molding on top/bottom that
would allow me to put a socket on there.
Question: Do I need to do this over a pan, or out in the dirt because of
the fuel that is going to drain out? Don't need another spot on my driveway
or lecture about said spots from YKW.
Also, after changing filter, will I need to follow priming instructions in
manual due to creating an air space in there from dumping the fuel and
putting a dry filter in?
Thanks in advance.
Any other pointers or caveats?
Correct. A 1-1/8" socket with a short handle rachet works well to loosen.
A pan underneath ... or you can use a plastic grocery bag to set the
filter in immediately after pulling it out.
Some completely drain the reservior. I don't. I drain a little off and
then pull the filter and put a new one in. I'm sure someone will
disagree with me, but I like this method because then you don't have to
prime the reservoir by bumping the starter.
Make sure to moisten the new rubber o-ring with oil or diesel fuel. I
*think* the torque rating is 25 lb.ft. on the plastic cap.
Nope ... it's pretty easy. Takes less than 5 minutes and you get to
sniff diesel fuel on your fingers for a couple of hours. Hell of a deal.
I used to work offshore in the Gulf of Mexico. I had bags and clothes that
I would use for NOTHING else but offshore work. My wife even had a separate
washing machine for my work stuff.
ahhhhhhhhhh, the smell of diesel ...................
My father has a mill-work shop when I was coming up. I stripped &
re-finished furniture during the summers. We had a paint booth where I
would shoot lacquer on the furniture after staining it. (I also
re-painted my first car in that paint booth (1977 Cougar XR-7)).
Anyway ... lacquer ... I spent many, many happy and high summers in that
Yep - that would be me :)
I like to drain the canister first (see my previous post about extending the
canister's drain line to make this less messy). With the drain open, I
unscrew the filter. Once the vacuum is broken, the canister empties out,
and I barely get a couple of drips when removing the filter. With the
canister empty, I then clean the WIF sensor (as recommended by the manual).
I shoot it with some brake cleaner, which also serves to wash out and gunk
in the canister (the dirty side of the filter), and it all goes into the
drain. Close up the drain (VERY important), drop in new filter, tighten cap
until the black plastic of the cap makes contact with the gray body of the
canister (no need to tighten further - the O-ring is what does the sealing),
bump ignition to run fuel pump, wait till pump shuts off, then start. Wait
for the truck to burp (engine stumbles a bit), and you know you've just
purged all the air.
Of course, now I rarely change this filter. With my FASS, I simply change
the spin-on filter every 40,000miles or so (Yes, I run dual in-line
filters... of course, I'm doing it backwards - 3 micron filter on the FASS,
10 micron in the stock canister. <shrug>). SO much easier than changing
the factory filter :)
Just think about all of that diesel being wasted. :-)
I'd like to modify my truck as you have, but I only drive about 1,000
miles per year. I think my next purchase will be a couple of battery
conditioners. One day I'm going to walk out to dead batteries from lack
Any recommendations for battery conditioners?
I keep my other truck (the big gas-sucking V10) on a BatteryTender
I have the quick-connect wire hard-wired to the battery, with the pigtail
sticking out the front bumper (next to the fog light). It's set up so that
on the off-chance I forget about it, I've got at least half a shot at it
disconnecting itself before I rip something out that doesn't want to go back
I'm not sure if a dual-battery setup would give these things any problems.
I don't see why, but... ?
Nope - you're right... I just didn't feel like installing it that way :)
I was lucky - I had a previous pusher pump from another manufacturer, which
had already replaced the factory lift pump on the back of the filter
canister with an AN fitting. So, with that, I decided to plumb the FASS
fuel supply line to this fitting, rather than the back of the injection
pump. This way, I would be assured of the factory filter catching any
residual junk from the FASS install, including any teflon tape (yeah, I
know - but they said to use it) that might have broken off. This allowed me
to keep the stock fuel heater (lotta good it'll do with the FASS filter all
gelled up, I know...) and stock WIF sensor. And hey, if it ever came to a
warranty situation, I didn't alter the factory filtration system (pay no
attention to the fueling boxes, air/exhaust mods, or the fact that my turbo
suffered a freakish case of cellular mitosis)
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