this past weekend i bought yet another '01.5 3500. overall its a GREAT
truck but there are several issues that im having and i hope to get some
feedback from you guys.
please see http://inlinediesel.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID 65 for
pictures and specific explanations of my issues.
any help would be greatly appreciated!
Nathan In Montana
Thought you had a two speed rear axle on it already? Were you in high
to get any response at all from the front drive. i get no dash lights, and the
drive definately does not engage (turned short on pavement with no resistance at
all). nothing appears to be out of place, so im hoping somebody can give me a
good starting point. im a dumb-ass, and never even thought to check the front
drive before buying the truck. i still would have bought it (the interior is
just perfect and the outside isnt too bad either!) but i would have negotiated a
little harder on price.
Sounds like the front drive shaft was removed! <bg> I suspect
(seriously) the linkage on the shifter is disconnected so you won't
blow the two speed rear axle. Check that first, the transfer case is
super simple, no lights means it is not shifting, and not shifting is
almost always just linkage.
have helped, but im at least preparing myself to have to change them. how
difficult is this on the 24 valve cummins 5.9? my local dealership today said
they need to be "flushed", at a cost of $125 but does the dealership do anything
more than run the same type of cleaner through them?
Got me... <g>
cannot put off fixing. how big of a job is it to change this seal? dealer wants
$325 out the door.
If you have all the tools, maybe a DIY job, if not that dealer price
may nto be that bad.
the red handle mounted on the shifter (shown above) is for the exhaust brake.
when you pull the exhaust brake it engages, even if you are trying to
accelerate. on my automatic i can turn the exhaust brake on and it automatically
engages only when i disengage the throttle, but thats not how this one works. i
would prefer to not have to turn it on and off by hand every time i want to
engage it. im not opposed to removing it and replacing it with another type if i
have to. recommendations? im running a banks exhaust brake on SMOKE-DOG but
smoke-dog has an automatic with the automatic controller.
I'd have guessed the red knob was the rear axle shifter. Or did I
misunderstand and this is a different truck?
I'd guess you are SOL on that one.
Make sure your vacuum pump is working OK. That is the most common
problem (or a broken/leaking line) Defrost is the default mode when
the vacuum fails so you can keep the windshield clean regardless.
If the linkage were disconnected, the shifter would have no detents in it -
it would just slop back and forth. When in 2WD, you should be able to spin
the front driveshaft by hand. In 4WD, it would be locked up. If that's the
case, then the T-case is "probably" OK. Next suspect is the CAD. It's
vacuum-operated (Nate, remember your other truck where some animal chewed
your vacuum lines? Same deal on this truck). Check the vacuum lines for
any missing pieces and/or holes. Remove the CAD (4 bolts - drive the right
wheel up on some wood blocks to give the axle a slight tilt, so the gear
lube doesn't leak out when you remove the CAD), and again manipulate the
shifter with the engine running. If the vacuum is all working properly, the
shift fork should move back and forth. When replacing the CAD, be sure to
align the shift fork with the collar inside the axle.
Injector swaps are pretty simple... plenty of info over at the diesel sites
(TDR, and the like), but essentially, you pull the valve cover, remove the
rocker arms, disconnect the injector lines from the sides, pull the little
extension tube out slightly, unbolt the injectors, and pull 'em up. Replace
with new, tughten stuff to spec (expecially important to get the torque
right on the injector line nuts), put the rocker arms back, and re-set valve
lash (good thing to do anyway).
While the 24V doesn't run as high a pressure as the HPCR's, they still run
in the several thousands of PSI. WTF is going to gum them up that would
resist that pressure, yet a simple "flush" would eliminate? For $125, all
they're doing is dumping cleaner in the tank.
Much easier than the driver's side. You can access the seal through the CAD
opening. Basically, remove wheel, caliper, rotor/hub/stub shaft (easiest to
remove it all as an assembly). Knock the old seal out with a long punch.
You may be able to put the new seal in through the CAD and tap it in place,
but you'll probably need to make an installation tool. You want a long
threaded rod, a couple of big washers (can be metal, if you have it, or
hardwood), and some nuts. You want the inner washer the same diameter as
the seal. You'll pass the threaded rod into the axle housing, through the
seal, through a washer, and nut it on the back. Now put another washer on
the outer end, and a nut. Nold the rod stationary, and crank down on the
outer nut to "pull" the seal in to position. Then, just put everything
You're missing a micro-switch on the accelerator pedal. I know you don't
like 'em, but if you install one in-line with the wiring to the master arm
switch (a normally-open switch, mounted to close when at 0 throttle), it'll
shut the brake off when you get on the fuel.
Yep - vacuum problem. Most likely the same problem that's affecting your
4WD. The vacuum pump is slaved to the PS pump on these trucks. Check it
for proper operation and/or leaks.
Is this the one that you mentioned before with the two speed rear end
(or adapter in front of the rear end?)
BTW, on my diesels, (not Dodges, but Hummer H1s) we generally cruise
at 2100 RPM. The book recommends a cruising RPM range of 1,500 to
2,600 RPM, but personally I like 2,100 best.
..what would you think about running the exhaust brake off the microswitch
for the brake lights? whenever the brake lights come on, so does the
exhaust brake? perhaps put a master switch under the dash to kill it all
together if needed. ?
Nathan In Montana
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