Why would you make such an assumption? If an anti-seize compound is recommended, then that torque spec has to include it or it is simply worthless. 30 FT-LBS is not all that high and it seems to take a hell of a lot more than that to break the damn things free :-0
25-30ft.lbs. is about right... I go by another rule of thumb... if the spark plug uses a crush washer, I go finger tight plus a half-turn. If it uses a flat washer, go finger-tight plus 1/16 of a turn.
You can use a bit of anti-sieze if you want - but I've never found it all that necessary... most decent plugs will already have a coating on the threads, and if they're changed when they're supposed to be (every 30K miles or 2 years), siezing (in iron heads, anyway) is rarely a problem. Over-torque 'em, or leave 'em in for 100K, and yeah... you just might wind up snapping them off.
Without a doubt... aluminum heads are a whole different story. Never try pulling plugs from a hot (or even warm) engine with aluminum heads - always do it cold.
30 ft-lbs pounds might be a little too much. My book calls for 30 inch-pounds, which is about finger tight plus 1/16 of a turn. I didn't believe it either, but I did it anyway expecting many leaks. Nothing bad happened. I was happy.
25-30ft.lbs. is about right... I go by another rule of thumb... if the spark plug uses a crush washer, I go finger tight plus a half-turn. If it uses a flat washer, go finger-tight plus 1/16 of a turn.
You can use a bit of anti-sieze if you want - but I've never found it all that necessary... most decent plugs will already have a coating on the threads, and if they're changed when they're supposed to be (every 30K miles or 2 years), siezing (in iron heads, anyway) is rarely a problem. Over-torque 'em, or leave 'em in for 100K, and yeah... you just might wind up snapping them off.
The FSM indicated 30 foot pounds (31 Newton-meters). It has no listing in the inch pounds column. This is for factory plugs, which do use a crush washer. Perhaps you mis-read it.
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