tic, tic?

It didn't cost me anything as it is still under warranty. Although I suspected it, I didn't try to tell the service manager what I thought it was. I just told him the symptoms. He said it was most likely the stabilizer bar busings or the secondary steering shaft. As I said, they ended up replacing the secondary steering shaft. I do have the factory service manual. In the Diagnosis and Testing section, under "Steering Noise", it lists under "Rattle or Clunk":

1. Gear mounting bolts loose (correction is to tighten bolts to specification)
2. Loose of damaged suspension components (correction is to inspect and repair suspension)
3. Internal gear noise (correction is to replace steering gear)
4. Pressure hose in contact with other components (correction is to reposition hose)
5. Loose or damaged intermediate shaft or column (correction is to inspect and repair or replace)

So, as you see, it lists possible causes for the noise, but it does not have procedures for diagnosing the particular components. I think they chose the most likely candidate and then just replaced it. At any rate, it describes the procedure for replacing the steering shafts. for the lower steering coupling, is says: Begin quote: Removal:

1) disconnect the negative battery terminal 2) raise and support the wheels NOTE: The steering column on vehicles with an automatic transmission may not be equipped with an internal locking shaft that allows the ignition key cylinder to be locked with the key. Alternative methods of locking the steerin wheel for service will have to be used. 3) Lock the steering wheel with the tire in the straight position. 4) Remove and discard the upper coupler pinch bolt (Fig. 9). 5) Remove and discard the lower coupler pinch bolt (Fig. 9). 6) Remove the lower steering shaft coupler (Fig. 9) Installation: 1) Install the lower coupler to the steering rack and pinion (Fig. 9) 2) Install the upper coupler to the lower (Fig. 9) NOTE: New pinchy bolts must be used for reinstallation 3) Install teh lower pinch bolt (Fig.9) and tighten to 57 N-m (42 ft. lbs.) 4) Install the upper pinch bolt (Fig. 9) and tighten to 57 N-m (42 ft. lbs) 5) Lower the vehicle 6) Reconnect the negative battery cable. 7) Unlock the steering wheel End Quote.

Now, you may be wondering why I put in this verbatim, including the references to "Fig. 9", which I obviously couldn't type in. I did this because, even with the picture, it is scant help. The part descriptions in the figure do not match the part descriptions in the above procedure. "Fig. 9" refers to the following parts:

1) Lower coupler bolt 2) Lower coupler 3) Toe plate 4) Toe plate mounting nuts 5) upper coupler mounting bolt and nut 6) upper steering coupler shaft 7) rack and pinion

I hate to say it but the factory shop manuals I have for my Toyotas (89 PU, 2000 Camry, 92 Tercel) are MUCH better than the Dakota manual. Luckily I have not had to use the Dak manual much as it is still under warranty (its a 2004 with only 16K miles on it and I have an extended warranty). Sorry, but you now know pretty much as much as I know about the secondary steering shaft diagnosis and replacement. Larry D.