Need a winch for my 26' enclosed car trailer. Can't decide if one that
reverses is better or worse than one that only powers in and has a clutch.
Suggestions would be welcome. My open trailer has a cheap winch that has a
clutch and it works fine, but it's easy to run around the car on that
trailer. With an enclosed trailer, you need to be in two places at one time
to load or unload the car.
On a different topic. What's the best way to set up the equalizer/anti-sway
bars? Is there a web page that describes the correct way to do it. This
trailer has a lot of tongue load, is that more or less normal?
Typically a trailer will have 10-15% tounge weight. I don't have any
web pages handy but heres what I do.
With trailer unhitched measure the front and rear wheel well clearance
of your truck.
Now hitch up and adjust bars so they are fairly parallel to the trailer
frame. Remeasure wheel well clearance. The biggest thing is that you
want the front to be lower than when unhitched. The closer to the
amount of drop at the rear the better.
If you have little drop or the front is higher then the spring bars are
not set tight enough. If setting them tighter causes the bars to be way
off from parallel to the frame then the hitch ball angle is most likely
insufficient. Typically this angle should be around 6 degrees down.
Once adjusted properly the truck and the trailer should be sitting
fairly level. If not then the hitch drop/rise is wrong.
Big Al wrote:
I use an open trailer. Power-out is handy for unloading anything that has
no working brakes (hulks, etc). I bought a Superwinch S3500 (power in & out
+ freespooling) which is enough for any rolling load you can haul in your
trailer. I also purchased their cradle. It's a combination carrying handle
w/ a removable 2x2" stinger. I fabricated a receiver on the front of my
trailer, and can remove the winch for safe keeping or for use directly on
the front and rear hitches of my pickup. Summit Racing had the best price.
I use a 30' remote control, and I understand they now have wireless remote
The stall current of a winch that size is around 175A, but the normal
working current is much less -- haven't measured it. I run dual group 27
batteries, with 1/0 welding cable in the high-current path (including the
battery ground leads). The 2-pin polarized connectors at the ends of the
supply are rated at 150A -- you should be able to find them at an RV
supplier. I also made some jumper cables (also 1/0 welding cable) so I can
jump-start anything from the front or rear w/o lifting my hood. A *big*
alternator is the last item I have on my list. That should give you some
I have a Superwinch S2500 in the garage. I'll look for a way to mount it.
The trailer has a large Honda generator and it has a regular car type
battery. I was going to power the winch with that battery because the
generator keeps it charged.
Al.. this might help:
IMO, tongue weight is a good thing... less sway that way....
The WDH transfers weight to the front of the truck and helps level the
I have a husky, but there are some good tips in the URL above..
Please remove splinters before emailing
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