'92 RS Heritage; cert. of destruction...

Not sure about the title.. but the whole relying on Carfax.. no.. Carfax = crap! I ran a report on my '88 when I got it.. Came off as a 4 start or whatefver.. they guaranteed it was a perfect car. Well, after further checking up, its been in atleast 2 accidents and the odometer was rolled back. Just FYI.

well I am not too worried about the carfax report. It's the fact that it's got that certificate of destruction. The only damage is a small dent in the front fender. The car has been in no accidents

Make them an offer, buy the car and then worry about titling it. You can always sell it off for parts later on.

Get something from the salvage yard saying you bought it and own it outright.

Here in NYC, that would probably get a salvage title. Not the end of the world, but does put up a red flag about history.

Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

it's not so easy...

Floida state chapter 713.78 subsection 11a states, "A certificate of destruction, which authorizes the dismantling or destruction of the vehicle or vessel described therein, shall be reassignable a maximum of two times before dismantling or destruction of the vehicle shall be required, and shall accompany the vehicle or vessel for which it is issued, when such vehicle or vessel is sold for such purposes, in lieu of a certificate of title." Doesn't that sound like this could never get registered and titled ever again? One thing I never found in the laws was a time frame in which it had to be destroyed in. On the actual certificate of destruction, it says "I understand this form is to be kept in my files for 3 years". Does that mean it goes away after 3 years or just the paper certificate?

On the actual certificate (

Make sure the car is a legit Heritage edition! Bring the VIN # to any GM dealer and have them plug it into their parts system. One of the codes (probably starts with a Y) will denote this "special edition". Make sure the VIN # on the dash and major parts all match.

It could be a retag of a car with the parts from the Heritage.

I would probably easily get that titled here in NYC :). LOL.

Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

noo, trust me, it's been looked up twice. It's legit!

Actually do you mind talking to some people at DMV or whereever about that and telling me if it's possible? God I would love to have this car and I don't care if I have to take a week of leave just to get it registered. :)

Welcome to Pennsylvania!

Find a shop that will do a reconstructed title Inspection for you, and in about ten days to two weeks, you'll have a registration card and a license plate. I another two weeks to a month, you'll have a Certificate of Title!

Then you can register the car with the Certificate of Title, with a Salvage brand on it, in any state.

Refinish King

NYC is where I used to Launder my Pa titles:

Till they got smart to that and stopped that!

LOL

Refinish King

Stop telin Secrets! Charles

Joe: Im shocked (has a stroke), they YOU would give such advuce if my caliber. :)

NY is one of the states to re-title a FLA cirt of de-fuctith in. Charles Who me? Would I do such things to save classic tin? you bet your Hard-On.

Charles:

I have a buddy in MS that runs a salvage lawn equipment shop, it works for him. LOL. He takes $1000 ride on machines that people junk and gets them running like new in ten minutes. A real master at what he does.

Ok, those don't require titles, but hey, it's the same idea, he saves some good vintage stuff. He hooks me up with all the NOS Tecumseh items for my '65 Craftsman snowblower (who knew this thing was "collectable" after I bought it in great shape for $180 in NJ, even have ALL the original manuals for it...lol).

Anyhow, it's not hard to get a title here for that so long you can prove what has been done to it. I wouldn't sweat it if I were the original poster.

Save it, find a place to store it and work on the paperwork in due time. If nothing else, you could always part it out on Ebay.

Shoot, here in NYC, they will take a car for junk without a title. LOL.

Hmmm, about that neighbor I don't like (J/k). LOL. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

Thanks everyone, glad to hear from you :)

it's looks like I can reg it again in cali!!!! there still is a possibility that they might not, but it's unlikely. If not NY might be my next pick. I still need to go back one more time to the tow yard and see if they will send in the letter and affidavit (general sworn statement if you didn't know) and get a rebuildable salvage title and the state will send an inspector to the salvage yard to check out the vehicle to reissue a rebuildable title (not rebuilt yet). It is perfectly legal.

Yes I am buying it!

I am trying to find someone with a digital camera so I can take some pictures when I get it on base. If nothing else, I will buy a cheap disposable camera and have the pictures developed and put on cd.

It's final, I am buying the car. Paid the guy $400 and he is going to tow it to his yard and put a car cover I just bought on it. I still need to find out if I can get the original hatch for it. I also still have to pay another $1000 for it so it's going to be awhile. I might be able to go to his house though and take some pictures though.

If you want a sneek preview, here is a picture from thirdgen.org. This looks just like it (color and all) except it has T-tops.

Here it is:

Nice, that looks to be a great project car. A great platform to start from even if it's for a restoration. Keep at it! :)

now I've got to talk to an inspector here and have him come out and check the car out. If he deems it rebuildable, they could help straighten all the paperwork out with the towing company and try and get them to change the title.

Wow, I can't believe it. I really think this car was meant for me.

This mourning I got a rude awakening from my smoke detector that's in my room at 10am and seeing how I didn't go to sleep till 4am I really wasn't ready to get up, but I wasn't sure if there really was a fire or not so I got up, got dressed and went outside to find what? Apparently it was only mine that went off. They are all supposed to be linked to each other to set all of them off when one goes off. Or at least I thought. It was a REALLY LOUD noise too. Anyway the firemen came and disabled my alarm and will replace it tomorrow. So an hour later I go eat lunch and then went home for a few more hours waiting for the auto shop to open. I went down to radio shack and bought some wire and alligator clips to make this resistor thing easier. I went back to the auto shop and pulled the car cover off and got my ohmmeter out and started connecting wires, but I realized something wasn?t right the last day I worked on it. It had no resistance or voltage going through the wires in off/run or any mode so I starting investigating. The VATS wire that goes from the ignition switch to the connector was smashed under the steering column support (I don?t know what it?s really called, but you know what I mean) by the flared nut. I took it off and behold, broken wire? So I went swimming around the area where I thought the other connector would have been. After a while I got up to look at some wiring diagrams to see if they would help (and of course they didn?t) and spotted a loose connector on the floorboard. It didn?t have the orange outer jacket, but the 2 wires coming out of it were the same gauge and color. But I still didn?t know where to connect it to so I went swimming once again. I was almost ready to give up when I spotted it hanging in the background and the connector seem to fit flawlessly and seem to be the only one that could fit. So I went back home and soldered 2 wires to the connector to replace the broken ones and went back out and hooked it all up. I read +5v in all modes. So now I start testing different resistances (I have the 15 for passkey II and their tolerances) and am finally getting the security light when I am wrong. BTW it takes alittle over an hour to try all combos because you have to wait at least 4 minutes between tries or it won?t work and there are 15 possibilities. I was working from last to first thinking I would find it faster and I didn?t. I was going to try one more before calling it a day because they were closing in 15 minutes. It was the one closest to what I consider to be my lucky number (or numbers). I tried it and got the security light. One thing I found on the VATS that I forgot about is that you have to give it +2 seconds after you put the key to the run position and then the light will go off if it?s the right resistance so the other combos I tried could have also worked because I didn?t try to crank it every time. I was ready to accept failure for the day and then I tried to crank it over for the hell of it and I heard the starter and saw the lights dim.

I now think the reason they left the car behind when they moved is because they had a VATS problem. I could be wrong because there is no way of knowing when this actually occurred unless I can contact the previous owner. It makes perfect sense why they would?ve left it in the condition it was in. Even if the wires weren?t broken before the salvage yard got a hold of it, I was getting a high resistance reading from the 2 wires which threw me off the other day because I didn?t not know what I was supposed to be reading. It looks like something a repair shop would have done more than a person because it is a bright orange wire jacket.