I lost my access to this group for a few days (not sure why). I'll repost.
I have a brand new 82-87 Ford 3.8 3 piece timing set, Sealed Power, new in the box. I don't need it....I'll trade it for something if you know of someone that can use it.
Let's discuss if you're interested. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going....
Why are you selling ford parts on a GM website? How many deals are you into? I thought you were the guru for transam & pontiac products? What gives? Trusted your advice in the past?
Read the post. I came across this and want to get rid of it & trade it for something I can use. Sealed Power's numbering system is stupid. The Pontiac gear set is the SAME Part # as this with an "S" on the end of it. That's how I bought it by accident! LOL. It's tough to remember almost every part # for your car out of your head, but I do pretty good. LOL. Some guys here drive Ford. Charles is a mechanic by trade, and works on 'em all. I know parts for them all.
Someone might have one of these heaps and be willing to trade something for it. Hence, my post.
I know Ford, Chrysler, and the imports like I know GM. So, how does my trying to get rid of a Ford part here change things?
Newsflash: It doesn't. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going....
All of the above and don't forget to either have the flywheel resurfaced or change that out also. A core charge is more convenient than the time it takes to bring the parts to the shop.
...Ron
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68' Camaro RS
88' Firebird Formula
00' Mustang GT Vert
Throw out all the parts you mentioned and replace with new. Don't skimp in any way.
I would go with a GM set up, personally. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going....
Joe, all the GM units are made by Valeo/LUKE which you can get from any of the parts places and are equal or better in grade/quality than what GM used. There are only three or four companies in the world that have the tooling to stamp the pressure plate. SAX is another company but those are more common in exotics.
Hays and Centerforce just paint the pressure plate their color, add their own disc and whatever gimicks they might have.
Just because a particular supplier makes for another company, you are NOT guaranteed to get the same level of quality as originally installed.
Delco brakes are a prime example. There are TWO grades of product and BOTH have the Delco name.
Delco "171" series are real GM OEM in a Delco box. Delco Durastop are also "GM/Delco" but are reboxed Raybestos PG product at double the price. LOL.
There are different levels of quality even under a given OEM #.
I think you mean "LUK" :) Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going....
Here's my experience with pressure plates behind the 455:
Stock unit from the parts store - 2 passes and it went up in smoke Hays Street/Strip - 6 passes and it started slipping, gone in 4 more passes Centerforce dual friction - about 20 passes before the disc went up in smoke Centerforce with solid disc - worked the best, got 40 passes out of it
I talked to a guy from Hays and he said the Street/Strip didn't have enough clamping force for the Pontiac but it should work in the vette that smoked the stock clutch. A buddy with a 69 Yenko clone had the same problem but the Centerforce worked in his car too.
The segmented Centerforce disc gave me a lot of trouble on the 1-2 shifts when the car got hot. A guy at the track said to swap in a solid disc and my shifting problems went away.
I only used nitrous with the Centerforce clutch.
Also, any time you cut a flywheel you really should make sure you have clearance between the disc springs and the flywheel bolts, especially if you don't know the history of the flywheel.
Most flywheels have a minimum thickness requirement. Usually stamped on the outer ring. Yet very few mechanics check them before & after having them surfaced. Some after market clutch disks do require more clearance then that factory minimum number as well. Something the disk maker's tech support should be able to tell you.
My father had a REAL Yenko (vin number 124379N578923). He bought it to Drag Race, ending up running Super Stock classes. After having the 427 balanced & blueprinted (per NHRA rules), he would eat stock clutches in 2 to 4 passes. He went to a Centerforce clutch, and got slightly better results. Centerforce helped him out, he ended up using one of their proto-type Racing Disks, and a pre-production 3 finger pressure plate. That was in 1969.
I used to have one ofthe old disk & pressure plates. Yet I lost them when I moved, a log with 12 other boxes of N.O.S. & lightly used Big Block Chevy parts from the late 60's early 70's. Not to mention a tool box that weighed over 150 pounds. Charles The people that helped me move have either left town, or are keeping a very low profile.
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