1989 ford crown vic pulls after new brakes installed

car pulls hard left. I have had it back to the shop 4 times. New pads, new caliphers, new rotors, new seals, repack bearings, new wheel seals, cleaned and adjusted rear brakes. Car can be driven a few miles and it will not pull. All of a sudden when braking, it will pull. If I slam on brakes it doesn't seem to pull. When I brake normally, i.e., traffic light, stop sign, etc., it then pulls severely. Anybody have any suggestions? Thank you.

Reply to
gyrene
Loading thread data ...

It sounds like you have a restriction in one of the front brake hoses (read separation). Relace both hoses and bleed system. Good luck

Reply to
rjtvd

tire pressure bad caliper misadjusted rear brake ball joints tie ends wheel brngs sliders contamination on assembly glazed rotor rear drums not within .030 of each other castor u tell me

hurc ast

Reply to
fordsrus12473

That's real great advice... the customers at your dealership must love you

But then again if they are smart they probably keep you waaaaaay in the back sweeping up the speedy dry

Better check those used oil containers, looks like they're getting full

Reply to
sleepdog

Check the air pressure in the tires obviously if you haven't already. How about the brakes being bled? Is it possible you have air in one of the lines?

Reply to
sleepdog

lmfao what advice did you give?

btw i left 3 out which ones were they?

tell me what would you check next?

hurc ast

Reply to
fordsrus12473

lmfao i already said that BWHAHAHAHAHA

hurc ast

Reply to
fordsrus12473

Look at the thread tree idiot, that was a response to the original poster, not your nonsense, and google f'ed up because I posted that before I took the troll bait and responded to your stupid post "you tell me"

Reply to
sleepdog

I would check how deep the dent in your head was with a tire iron, then I would urinate on your "red seal"

Difference between you and most everyone else is that you obviously have something to prove. But I can't decide if it's not knowing how to type or a bad command of the English language.

Anyway, your the self proclaimed Ford "expert" and you do nothing but bait everyone to challenge your vast knowledge of ... what I don't know.

And btw, I didn't see you list air in the lines anywhere, so bwahahahahaha to you too, hurc ass

Reply to
sleepdog

lmfao look at the time of posts lmfao

BUSTED

seems like yor the only troll here

lmfao

look whos trolling now

hurc ast

Reply to
fordsrus12473

already.

Reply to
sleepdog

Is the pull the reason that you took the car to the shop? Or did it happen following a brake job or other service?

Rodney

Reply to
Rodney

Sounds like one of the front brake calipers is hanging up. After you drive a few miles carefully check the temperature of the wheels on both sides of the car (don't burn your hand). Chances are one side will be much hotter than the other. The car will pull in the oppsite direction (away from the hot rotor). A few possibilities of why this happens - bad brake line (acts like a one way valve and keep slight pressure on the pads), caliper not properly sliding on the slider pins (needs lubrication), trash in the caliper blocking proper fluid flow (you can force fluid in, but it doesn't bleed back properly); piston hanging in the caliper. When a caliper hangs, the brakes on that side are always on slightly. It might not be enough to notice at first. However, after a few miles, that brakes get really hot, and the braking effectiveness is decreased on that side. So when you apply the brakes to stop, the cooler brake on the opposite side works much better and the car pulls to the side of the cooler brake. When you first start out, but brakes work properly, it is only after a few miles that the pull starts.

Ed

Reply to
C. E. White

That advice is as good as telling him to make sure the radio isn't on.

Reply to
Mark

I have seen this a couple times as a result of a faulty calipre. The problem is one of the calipres is not fully releasing resulting in those pads being warmer than the other side as you drive. When you apply the brakes, the warmer pads are already up to optimum braking temperature intead of needing a couple of turns to get there. The only fix I have seen is to replace both calipres because you basically have no way of determining whether the problem is a tight or loose piston or a bad casting. Also, the brake flex lines to the wheels can do this if the inner liner separates resulting in a "check valve" effect retaining pressure on one of the brakes even when released. The result is the same. I have seen this occur right after a brake job where the tech either dropped the calipre while it was still attached to the hose or simply left the calipre hanging by the hose instead of tying it up with a wire to support it while the brakes are being service as they should be. I suspect the calipre is your particular problem since you say it needs to be driven a bit before the problem occurs.

Reply to
lugnut

And so is "rear drums not within .030 out of each other"....

Reply to
Shoe Salesman

Brake hose has a restriction. Rubber inside the hose old, clogged, should have replaced those hoses with all the other work. Rookie mistake.

Reply to
noname

Why, because tire pressure has no impact on a car pulling to one side when braking?

And your advice would be?

Reply to
sleepdog

It would have to be flat on the rim to react as he described. The word severe was used several times.

Check the position of the power seats. If they are fine, I would make sure the rear defroster is not on. Possibly check the washer fluid level as well.

I know this makes sense to you, at least.

Reply to
Mark

I've had low tires pull the steering one way, only in need of about 10 lbs of pressure, and were not flat on the rim as you suggest. And how "severe" is severe on usenet anyway?

So go ahead and replace everything before ruling out the obvious, if that's how you fix stuff. Seems like the original poster already did that and no joy.

Hey, you don't like my advice? Too bad, it's free.

Reply to
sleepdog

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.