I am in the midst of replacing the timing belt and water pump. While I
have good access to the AC compressor and clutch, I wanted to replace
the AC clutch because the outer ring is just hanging there loose. Not
sure why it separated from the clutch but it rattled horribly under
load at highway speeds.
Anyway, what tools would I use to remove the AC cluch? I think a
spanner wrench, but what else? Do I really have to energize the coil
to remove it? A new clutch is cheap enough to replace.
You'll also need a puller and installing tool to R & R the clutch
and an assortment of shims to set the clutch gap.
Thanks for the tip. I found a Ford T81P-19623-MH spanner wrench on
ebay for $13, includes shipping. Alldatadiy specifies this part number
and it looks like a mate to the hole patterns on the end of the clutch.
Can I just replace the seperated end-plate on the clutch? That is the
only reason I'm messing with it anyway. I'm pretty sure the rest of it
works, it always did until the end plate got loose.
yes but will most likely have to buy the whole thing. does it have a
bolt on the end of the shaft? if so I dont think you need anything
special. if its a nut on the end you need a puller and installer iirc.
Well I got the spanner wrench and the end came off no problem. Also
with the end came what looks to me to be one of the clutch plates that
was just hanging there, separated from the rest. The rest of the
clutch is still on the shaft, and it looks like its staying there for
It's was a nut on the end, not a bolt, but no luck finding any "ford"
specific pullers or installers, only GM pullers seem to be called out
The end piece has some threads on the inside diameter, but that piece
came off easily with the nut. Looking around the end of the clutch
there does not seem to be anything a puller can grab onto. Was there a
snap ring somewhere inside the clutch?
This sounds like a 10P15C Nippondenso compressor used on many late 80s/early
Fords. The threads on the outside piece (clutch) are where the puller goes if
The pulley is held on with a big snap ring. Remove the smap ring and the pulley
wiggle off. Once the pulley is off, the coil has either a snap ring or is an
interference fit (taps on and off with a RUBBER mallet). If the coil is not
need to replace at least the pulley and clutch. When the clutch plate goes, both
damaged. IMHO, replace the coil while you are there. If you bought a new clutch
you have all 3 pieces.
Wouldn't you know it, I pulled the radiator out, which wasn't hard,
unbolted the compressor from the bracket, and surprisingly found a lot
of slack in the lines allowing me to position it just right on top of
the head. Peeked inside the clutch pulley to see the snap ring. Not a
problem says I.
Until I found that none of my snap ring tips were long enough to reach
the ring.... argh!
No. It just pulls the clutch plate in about .020". The shaft doesn't move.
angle snap ring pliers would help. The ones with replacable tips won't work
the tension on the snap ring.
Now you know why this stuff is so expensive to get done at a shop ;)
Just a thought: Why don't you remove the compressor? Life would be much
is a good chance to reseal the system and you can rent a vacuum pump and gauges
recharge it. At Autozone the final rental cost is $0.
easier. >> This is a good chance to reseal the system and you can rent a vacuum
pump and >> gauges to recharge it. At Autozone the final rental cost is $0.
I have it unmounted but the hoses are still connected, it's sitting on
top of head right now so I have a clear shot at the shaft well where
the snap ring is located. There is slack enough in the flexible hoses
if you disconnect the low side harness from the right fender wall. By
resealing you mean replacing all of the seals on the compressor?
I was thinking about a R134A conversion. I suppose that would mean
removing the hoses from the top of the compressor and
draining/measuring the oil, and refilling with PAG. Also replace the
dryer and expansion valve. You have the system flushed after you
change the dryer?
The shaft seal yes, if it's oily around the shaft. Not the case seals. Mainly
o-rings on the compressor to line fittings and the o rings in all of the other
fittings. About $6 total, cheap insurance that will usually stop 95% of the
leaks in the system.
If you convert you would need to use Ester oil, not PAG.
To do the job "correctly" you would need to flush the evaporator, condenser,
lines (except for the orifice and accumulator) and drain the compressor. Replace
accumulator and orifice. Add your oil divided throughout the stystem, pull a
vacuum and charge with R-134 to about 80% of the R-12 charge.
So I would have to flush everything first, then replace the accumulator
and orifice. Unfortunately in the position I am in I can only replace
all the parts now then flush later, which probably does not make sense.
Maybe after the car is mobile once again I can get it flushed and
replace the accumulator and orifice afterwards.
Was just looking at a picture of the same compressor/clutch on ebay, I
can probably get away with replacing the end plate, forgive me for not
knowing the proper name. The end plate on mine seems to have separated
from the part the connects to the shaft. So I'm thinking the pulley is
Ok, just need to cannabalize another compressor somewhere for the end
Thanks for listening...
At least replace the pulley too. The front of it is the clutch surface and is
probably damaged fron the clutch plate failure. It's too easy to do it at this
Clutch service on this car isn't an easy job, no need to do it twice. Make sure
set the air gap between the clutch plate and the pulley. .010-.025. It's set
washers that go on the shaft before the clutch plate.
I would replace the entire pulley but it is not obvious to me how to
get it off the shaft. It looks like it is pressed onto the bearing, or
does the bearing come out with the pulley? Can't seem to locate the
right tool either. The alldata instructions aren't much help to the
uninitiated. I don't have the compressor unbolted from the harness,
and don't want to if I can avoid it, but I have some clearence with the
engine mount off and the engine jacked up.
Wait, I just read your other message regarding the snap ring...
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