No problem since only ONE engine comes in a ranger and it's not in anything
but the 94...
If it's MEANT to come out, it will have a hexagonal place to fit a deep
Subject: FAQ: How to get help from this board.
If you have a problem with your car and want to see what others who might
have some experience or knowledge to help you solve it or help you decide
what to do about it, PLEASE post ALL the information you have.
While computer geeks world-wide are working feverishly on the application, no
progress has yet been made on the ability to read minds over the net.
Year made, make, model, engine
FULL symptoms.. when it happens and any other info that seems unusual,
whether or not it seems related.
This wont cut it:
"My car wont start, can anyone tell me why?"
"My 92 Taurus 3.8 cranks but start, I pulled the codes and none of them seem
to have anything that helps solve the problem."
"I have fuel pressure and spark"
The above is STILL too general, if you know the codes from the computer, you
should include them. You may well have missed something.
Bear in mind:
The REASON most of us frequent these boards is to share what we know,
exercise our minds analysing problems, and learn something in the process.
It's hard to do that when you dont have all the facts.
If you want MODIFICATION or performance info on a specific type or model of
ford, try the FAQ on "Ford Links"
I think he was trying to tell me in his own clever way that I didn't
offer enough information about my problem, and he's right. Thing is,
sarcasm in email or message board postings is often is
misunderstood--it just doesn't come across well. It often seems rude.
Not to ME, of course, just to some people.
Anyhow, thanks for replying at any rate, and I apologize for not
offering enough info. The engine is a 3.0L V6. The fitting does have a
hex shape, but I don't think I could get a deep socket on it--the
inlet or outlet is at a 90 degree angle, preventing me from using a
socket. Plus, there is a part in front of it that would prevent access
unless that part is removed (I don't know what part it is). I suppose
it could be gotten at from the bottom, but there's no much room to
maneuver without removing stuff. So, I was hoping someone who had done
this or who sees the obvious and/or simplest solution would know how
to get this done. Thanks again for anyone who can help.
Yep... but the reader usually doesnt make that mistake twice. It's been used
Now we're getting there!
Trust your instincts on that.. thing is, if you COULD turn it, does the
nipple (OUTLET, BTW) clear that that interfering part?
Yes - Is the hex area the same size as the EGO sensor? (this is that thing
looks sorta like a spark plug that's in the exhaust)
Yes - Go to parts store and buy an EGO sensor socket
No - Try a "CrowsFoot" wrench, like an end wrench with no handle but a
place to insert ratchet extension
No - You're gonna have to remove or loosen that part/bracket
Those are two tools I hadn't heard of. (I'm a pretty horrible
mechanic, but I like to try and do things myself if I can make a
reasonable attempt and there's not a great likelihood of making
matters worse.) I'll let you know how it goes if I decide to try it.
Here's a thought... IF you see that you can install the thing without the
connection hitting that adjacent part, then get the new one, and, physically,
rip the nozzle off the old one. Then you can get a six-point socket on it to
take it out... it may tend to stick
The NEW one will go in relatively easily. Make sure to teflon tape it, three
wraps of pink tape.
You dont have to make it real tight. Just good and snug.
I didn't make the repair. I asked my mechanic to take care of it.
I checked around for the part. Nobody seemed to have it. The Ford
dealer parts guy said he could get it, but it's $120. No, thanks. The
Advance Auto Parts guy said to try water heater fittings at Home
And, as I studied the position of this fitting, it became apparent
that it wouldn't come off without removing the idler pulley (I think
that's what it is) bracket. And I didn't have the tools necessary to
loosen it and prove myself right (or wrong).
So the mechanic said he looked all over town and fially found the
fitting. $12. BUT, he had to remove the pulley bracket, as I
suspected, and he first had to remove the COMPRESSOR to get to the
bracket bolts. So the $12 part (plus A/C o-rings) plus 2 hours labor
later, I'm back in business.
I'm happy it's working again. I don't think my mechanic ever wants
that job again.
Maybe my next repair will be simpler and I can take care of it at
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