95 Ford Escort LX 1.9L SEFI crankshaft rotation and camshaft

While on the process of changing the Timing Belt, as per Haynes manual suggest (Chapter 2 Part A Engine Section 5.28). Rotating the crankshaft damper bolt with a socket and breaker bar in clockwise direction is not rotating the camshaft sprocket.

Currently the car is in neutral and hand brakes applied, drive belt removed still timing belt and crankshaft pully still on.

Appreciate any help.

Sam

Reply to
sams
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just did that job today, is the tensioner on? should turn crank and cam at 1/2 of crank. are you putting a new water pump on it? i would suggest it. see my post from earlier this evening. why hassle having to do a pump soon.

Reply to
skidflap

Drive belt tensioner off. Crankshaft pulley is on.

I turned the crankshaft pulley damper bolt 2 rounds using 19mm but the camshaft sprocket is not rotation. I dont know its important to align the camshaft sproket and crankshaft pulley at this time while removing the crankshaft pulley to change the timing belt. After removing the timing belt make sence to me. appreicate someone shed light here.

Yes. putting new water pump and if I had time and feel lucky planning to change the crankshaft sprocket - oilpump seal and oil pan gasket also.

Reply to
sams

Reply to
skidflap

sams opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

WHAT?

Why dont you LOOK at it and figure out why it doesnt move?

I think either you or Haynes have got a step out of sequence.

BEFORE you put the belt on and set the tensioner, you have to align the crank and cam COGGED pulleys to their respective marks

THEN you rotate them AFTER the belt is tight, WITH tensioner, 2 turns to insure the timing marks still are aligned

Dont call it DRIVE belt, call it timing belt.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

I see the steering pump hose joining with the pump got a wetness from oilseepage or leak and a film of oil on the underside of oilpan, also a few droplet of green af liquid on the garage floor since I stoped to change the belt. Though I never suspect any excess of drop in either oil or af liquid level

Sams

Reply to
sams

It would seem you are just STARTING to replace the belt, and have not yet removed it? The belt has missing teeth, that is why the cam is not turning. The engine is a free-wheeling engine, so just remove the belt and time the engine, then install the new belt.

Reply to
Thomas Moats

Thank you. I went ahead and removed the crankshaft pulley and timing belt. I found the timing belt is missing 8 tooth. I Will align the crankshaft sproket, and camshaft sprokets with TDC before installing the new timing belt.

Whats the easiest way to find the TDC Compression on the first spark plug? Shoudl I rent something like the Compression gauge with the spark plug adapter?

Appreciate any help.

Sams

Reply to
sams

go to auto zone and see what kind of free rental tools they have for it.... i use the free tool rental all the time,, just put it on the credit card and when finished bring it back and get full credit...

Reply to
jim

Reply to
Thomas Moats

Well... sorry for Iam being so doubtful, this is the place I get lost again and again in timing belt. So please tell me, line up the timing marks to proper pointers and need not to worry about TDC. Sound too good to be true. What will go worse if I get the timing wrong? Engine wont start or will I damage any parts on the engine?

Appreciate any help.

Sam

Reply to
sams

If a picture's worth a thousand words, here's an extra long reply:

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Start there, work your way through the site. When you finally get the concept that the camshaft will only turn at half the rate of the crankshaft (due to the size of the camshaft sprocket in relation to the crankshaft sprocket), you'll be on your way to understanding that yes, it is that simple.

Reply to
willyh

Reply to
Thomas Moats

Great! I aligned those marks and everything pretty straight forward afterwards. Since the crankshaft pully cann't be installed other way, its all fall into the right place. And every thing worked perfectly. I also changed the front oil seal before putting the crankshaft sproket and changed to new plugs and coil(plug) wires. Now the car is running very nicely than it was before. No oil or water/coolant leak in the last 2 days.

Thanks to everyone in this newsgroup who patiently answered my questions, without your help I may not have done this timing, driving belt, front oil seal change correctly the first time itself.

Great newsgroup! and great people out there.

Sam

Reply to
sams

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