Hi Joe I havent done the seals, however i have done a few belts and waterpumps,
although you can do it with the radiator installed, you gonna have to drain the coolent anyways, so i take an extra 3 minutes and carefully pull the hoses and the tranny coolent lines(dont forget to plug them) and pull the radiator out, remove the front bash plate,
the only real special tools you'll need for the belt is a large breaker bar and maybe a puller of the crankshaft pulley if it doesnt come off right a way by hand(another reason to pull the radiator is if you need to get a puller in there, otherwise you'll need to use bolts and washers on the puller to get something short enough to clear the radiator)
the biggest trick is breaking loose the crankshaft bolt,
one way to do it, you have to be very very carefull, hence to reason to pull the radiator, is to put on a pair of heavy gloves and googles, pull the coil wire so the engine wont start, then put the socket and the breaker bar on the on the crankshaft nut, position the end of the breaker bar handle about 2 or 3 inches above the ground OR from the fram, so that when you hit the starter the handle will rotate and contact the ground or the fram(it only takes an couple of inches for this to work. you can try it by your self first, position the breaker bar then quickly hit the key for just a second to get one good umfffff from the starter the bolt should break loose, if the breaker falls off you might have to have someone hit the starter for you and you CAREFULLY reach under and hold the breaker, once the bolt is loose it will come out by hand, when you replace the bolt later get an 8 foot 2X4 and have someone wedge it between the ground up through the front of the car and leverage it like a friction brake against the pully to do the final tightening.
this techinque was tought to me by a mechanic and its worked perfectly every time, and you dont need to pull the starter to try and hold the ring gear like the books recommend
you have to basiclly pull the timing belt completely to get the water pump out, it comes as an assembly with a gasket, napa and everyone has one, there are two types for the V6 that im aware of, one has an extra pipe off of it i think for the auto transmission or something, but make sure you get the right pump, otherwise they look identical.
go ahead and replace the belt while you have it apart, you will also need some permatex to seal the upper water outlet housing(coming out of the cam cover) there is no gasket but there is a channel in it like there would be a small thin rubber seal), just clean out the old gasket material and re seal it after you put the timeing cover back on.
if you or a friend are handy with a stick welder you can fabricate a tool to hold the cam sprocket to remove the bolt if you dediced to replace the cam seal take a piece of angle iron or scrap about 2 feet long and well a couple of 3/4 square or round bar about 2 inches long on it so they fit against a couple of the spiders on the sprocket, then wrap the bar in tape to not damage the sprocket. you'll need to be able to hold a couple of the arms of the sprocket(you'll figure it out once you see it) but still be able to get a socket around it whole thing to break the bolt loose)
, i've never done a cam seal in the vehical, im not sure if you have to remove the rocker cover or not, but if you do then the air intake chamber on top of the engine needs to come off which is few more hour job the first time and you'll need a couple gaskets for that job too. ive never done the crank seal either,
i dont mess with seals unless i know for sure they are leaking but with the crank pulely off it should be easy to get to, the cheaper hayes manual has barely enough for you to stumble through a belt change, but chiltons is better.
it took me an entire day with cleaning the first time i did a belt, now i can do a water pump and belt in about 2 to 3 hours maybe less in my sleep, do it once and you'll be an expert good luck john