Bad window/lock switches

Oct 09, 2003 4 Replies

Ford electrical. *sigh*



Any fix for the fact that the driver & passenger window & lock switches in our 98 Windstar seem to be going? Intermittent fuction at best, maybe 10% success.



We also have a lot of "door open" indicators when all the doors are tight. Cleaning the contacts on the rear and side sliding door seems to help a bit but this last time, that trick didn't work. Ideas on fixing this?


-M



BTW - read there's a FAQ somewhere but my newserver has no copy. How frequently is it posted out?


Mark,

The door indicator lamp on with the doors closed is usually caused by a problem with the switch located in the door/hatch latch assembly. This switch is serviceable and can be tested using a scan tool. Ford dealers have this tool. The cost of testing is approx. 1/2 to 1 Hr @ the shop rate which is usually between $65.00 and $80.00 depending on your location. You mentioned cleaning the contacts on the slider. A new contact plate set is also available from Ford.

Test the circuit/switches/contacts and repair. The lock/window concern could and probably is an effect of the door open indicator problem.

Hope this helps,

John

It's probably the front door switches; use WD-40 (a lot) in the latch mechanisms. If all the door & window switches are intermittent, I'd suspect a branch connector somewhere upstream that's corroded/loose.

Mark wrote:

The front windows controls (driver & passenger) are dependable. The remote switches to the rear windows will work one window OK most of the time and the other will go out but not in.

Both door-lock release are buggy - the driver side is better than the passenger side. The rear door-lock release (in the cargo area) always works.

I'd take the door's armrest apart and spray the switches out with electronic cleaner if I could figure out how to get the thing apart. Any hints? I've felt all over the thing and can't find any screws.

I'll try WD-40 into the latches for the door-open indicators. Love the stuff.

-M

-snip-

WD-40 can cause rust, according to some things I've heard. I usually prefer to buy a silicone-based lubricant anyway. Just don't use it on the engine block while it's still hot.. good way to poof,smoke,burn

Chuck

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