'98 XJ Power Window lock-out (gang) switch

Thanks, Bill- Right after I walk the dog, I'll remove the mouldings and check the wires under the carpet. However, in the past, I have removed and cleaned the switch, with the effect being a temporary repair - but it could be coincidental, since that didn't always work. I'll let you know.

Jim '98 XJ daily driver, mostly stock

I found that to be the case on my XJ, the wires under the driver's side carpet were green dust. Bypassed the corroded portion with a new wire spice and all was well. Wrap it good in mastic tape.

Original poster, here- I removed the trim pieces and rolled-back the carpeting. I found no wires anywhere under the carpet. They all appear to be routed along the dash. This is a '98 XJ. Please correct me if I have done something wrong. Thanks.

Jim

OP again - I didn't mention that I have previously replaced on of the wire looms that is routed through the driver's door, and into the kick panel. This was to correct a shorted-out speaker wire. All wires appear to run under the dash, from there - not beneath the carpet.

What about my original plan to join a couple of wires? Wire/stripe colors? I'll make a tester and do it experimentally - but I thought that someone here in the group might be able to read the wire diagrams better than I do. Thanks.

Jim

Hmm. Maybe by '98 they re-routed the wires so they wouldn't get soaked from shoe runoff in the winter and corrode.

If I were you I would get a facory service manual and check the wiring diagrams in that.

A new switch from the dealer however would be much cheaper.

Thanks for the replies about checking the condition of the wires running beneath the driner's carpet, but no wires are routed there on my '98 XJ.

I am pretty certain that the problem is in the switch in the driver's armrest, the push-button "childproof" window lock-out, to be specific. The dealer quoted about $200 for a new switch. I tried swapping-out one that I'd pulled at u-wrench-it, but it had fewer working functions than mine (this single part contains switches for mirrors, windows, and door locks) - but the particular window problem was corrected.

Removing and spray-cleaning the switch used to provide a temporary fix, but no more.

So to repeat my question, I'm just wondering whether I could either cut one wire or jump two together at the wire loom feeding the switch in the driver's door - to mimic the window "unlock" mode. Since toggling the switch is supposed to supply/cut power to the other window switches. Is anyone familiar with the particular wires that would be involved? Otherwise, I guess it'll just be trial and error. Thanks for any help.

js

On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:36:16 -0400, lou wrote: Well, you guys were on the right track. Last night, I located the fault in the wiring, but rather than in the floor, it was where the wires are flexed between the switch and bending to go through the driver's door. Thanks.

js