email@example.com wrote in news:ovrce29vl3leef0is44otbk6t9hrjkg84o@
The panel prys off, carefully, but I don't think that's your problem.
Number one, unscrew the fuse panel cover in the engine compartment and
see if all the window fuses have good links. Even if they DO have good
links in them, they can still not work because the stupid holder touching
only the ends is corroded. Remove the window fuses (it's on the chart
inside the cover) and clean the tabs with some emory cloth. Give the end
of the fuses a little polishing, too. If the fuse is all corroded up on
the end, don't screw with them, replace them....all that are corroded,
not just window fuses. Be sure to use the same value (color).
Now, with the ignition switch on, turn on the interior light so we can
watch it glow. Press the UP switch on the troublesome window. Does the
interior light dim down when you do that? Yes...window is drawing
current, the switch is making contact but something is stuck in the
window frame (too tight) or actuator arm (or bad drive in the motor but
we don't want to think about something so expensive). NO?...GOOD! Bad
switch or a loose wire, probably the switch some idiot put where everyone
sets their drinks and where dirt just HAS to fall into it. The switches
SUCK! Move the rocker around, pushing it side to side or see if you can
tilt it. If you can, the rocker plastic or bearings is broken, replace.
If the switch is suspect, that's easy to test. Swap the switch for one
of the other switches that is working properly. If that fixes the
window...put the new switch in the hole where you borrowed that one.
Drop by any auto parts place and buy a 12V test light. It looks like an
ice pick with a light bulb inside it and a coil cord sticking out the
back with a clip you can hook to ground on it. INvaluable for
troubleshooting. Now you can turn on the ignition switch and run the
test light probe into the sockets of the troublesome switch to see if we
have power or not to one of the wires. Click the switch and see if the
light lights on one of the other terminals, indicating the switch is
functional. If the switch is functional and has power output, THEN we'll
pull the door apart and test over there for power. If the motor has
power and ground but doesn't run and nothing's bound up....we'll go look
for the checkbook to see if we have enough money to replace it.
Independent Mercedes shops, like mine, buy junk Mercedes cars with great
window winders in them, even after the crash. Mine will let me go pull a
door apart to get the winder out, myself, then sell it to me lots cheaper
than if they have to pull it out! Bring your tools....noone loans tools.
Disconnect the raising arm the motor drive operates at the bottom of the
window. Use an old metal coathanger cut up to hold the window closed
until you get it fixed. Make SURE the window can't fall down and break!
It's worth more than the whole car!...(c;
My father died in January at 82. I've been fighting his '96 Chevy
Caprice Classic's electric window breaker tripping ever since.
YESTERDAY, I'd had enough and pulled the awful doors apart, finding a
chafed wire in the right front door shorting +12V to one of the millions
of unpainted, unfinished, sharp metal protrusions that grounded it out,
occasionally. GM thinks #14 wire should handle 50A long enough to trip a
thermal circuit breaker. They were wrong. I had to pull in a new #12 to
replace the MELTED one. Mercedes quality shows in our old cars....my '83
300TD wagon and '73 220D sedan, my favorite car of all time. GM wiring
harnesses are a bunch of cheap plastic wires wrapped the cheap plastic
electrical tape long enough to force them into the nooks and under the
carpet. How awful....piece of GM CRAP!
The whole inside of the doors is all RUST because GM doesn't PAINT
anything you can't SEE in the showroom.....(sigh)
There's amazing intelligence in the Universe.
You can tell because none of them ever called Earth.
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