Passenger front window stuck open!

Appreciate any help...
I have an 84 300SD. My front passenger side window is stuck open about 8 inches. Switch stopped working as I was lowering the window.
I can't lower or raise it,
How do I remove the door panel to take a look?
How do I raise it manually if necessary?
Any other ideas?
Thanks for any help,
JKR
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@mindspring.com wrote in news:ovrce29vl3leef0is44otbk6t9hrjkg84o@ 4ax.com:

The panel prys off, carefully, but I don't think that's your problem.
Number one, unscrew the fuse panel cover in the engine compartment and see if all the window fuses have good links. Even if they DO have good links in them, they can still not work because the stupid holder touching only the ends is corroded. Remove the window fuses (it's on the chart inside the cover) and clean the tabs with some emory cloth. Give the end of the fuses a little polishing, too. If the fuse is all corroded up on the end, don't screw with them, replace them....all that are corroded, not just window fuses. Be sure to use the same value (color).
Now, with the ignition switch on, turn on the interior light so we can watch it glow. Press the UP switch on the troublesome window. Does the interior light dim down when you do that? Yes...window is drawing current, the switch is making contact but something is stuck in the window frame (too tight) or actuator arm (or bad drive in the motor but we don't want to think about something so expensive). NO?...GOOD! Bad switch or a loose wire, probably the switch some idiot put where everyone sets their drinks and where dirt just HAS to fall into it. The switches SUCK! Move the rocker around, pushing it side to side or see if you can tilt it. If you can, the rocker plastic or bearings is broken, replace. If the switch is suspect, that's easy to test. Swap the switch for one of the other switches that is working properly. If that fixes the window...put the new switch in the hole where you borrowed that one.
Drop by any auto parts place and buy a 12V test light. It looks like an ice pick with a light bulb inside it and a coil cord sticking out the back with a clip you can hook to ground on it. INvaluable for troubleshooting. Now you can turn on the ignition switch and run the test light probe into the sockets of the troublesome switch to see if we have power or not to one of the wires. Click the switch and see if the light lights on one of the other terminals, indicating the switch is functional. If the switch is functional and has power output, THEN we'll pull the door apart and test over there for power. If the motor has power and ground but doesn't run and nothing's bound up....we'll go look for the checkbook to see if we have enough money to replace it. Independent Mercedes shops, like mine, buy junk Mercedes cars with great window winders in them, even after the crash. Mine will let me go pull a door apart to get the winder out, myself, then sell it to me lots cheaper than if they have to pull it out! Bring your tools....noone loans tools.

Disconnect the raising arm the motor drive operates at the bottom of the window. Use an old metal coathanger cut up to hold the window closed until you get it fixed. Make SURE the window can't fall down and break! It's worth more than the whole car!...(c;

My father died in January at 82. I've been fighting his '96 Chevy Caprice Classic's electric window breaker tripping ever since. YESTERDAY, I'd had enough and pulled the awful doors apart, finding a chafed wire in the right front door shorting +12V to one of the millions of unpainted, unfinished, sharp metal protrusions that grounded it out, occasionally. GM thinks #14 wire should handle 50A long enough to trip a thermal circuit breaker. They were wrong. I had to pull in a new #12 to replace the MELTED one. Mercedes quality shows in our old cars....my '83 300TD wagon and '73 220D sedan, my favorite car of all time. GM wiring harnesses are a bunch of cheap plastic wires wrapped the cheap plastic electrical tape long enough to force them into the nooks and under the carpet. How awful....piece of GM CRAP!
The whole inside of the doors is all RUST because GM doesn't PAINT anything you can't SEE in the showroom.....(sigh)
--
There's amazing intelligence in the Universe.
You can tell because none of them ever called Earth.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Many thanks Larry - I'll try your advice later today as soon as I can get to it.
JKR

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.