You are starting to confuse me with you silliness. You are saying in this
post that the tech will notice that the light's Self Test Cycle will be
different, but in a different post you say that the owner can get away with
telling the same tech that there is no Check Light on his truck?
Are you trying to convince us that there are more incompetent people working
on cars than you? I'm not buying it ...
There you go with that reading between the lines and getting angry stuff
again. I prefer to make the lamp work correctly, I'm just musing about why
I didn't like the wire it to the oil lamp solution, I'm not finished yet.
There are some unexplained anomalies that might not throw off a professional
automotive technician but if you want to come over and fix this POS for free
then be my guest. To be fair, even a pro should not see this situation very
often if ever, even a pro would wonder how it passed smog check last time
with no evidence that the wire has been there for many years. Either the
last smog check tech was incompetent (the "test only" shops really are more
thorough), or there is another wire splice outside the cable bundle that
failed that I have not found it yet (doubt it). The driver is too stupid to
remember if it ever lit up and too poor to care so I have to play detective.
I already posted my plan (connect pk/lg to t/r wire at test connector).
Maybe tonight I can post the result. But first some voltage measurements,
you don't think I would just guess without some testing to back it up.
Okay, I finally finished. Well, at least as far as I care to. I connected
the wires as planned and now the check engine light works more or less
There was one thing. When started, the check engine light flashes for about
30 seconds (60 winks) and stops and stays off.
That seems like an error code but I don't know if it will cause the smog
check to fail. The owner plans to have it retested tomorrow and if it
fails, then get the referee at the DMV to rule.
Now that all the pieces have come together I should have mentioned that
there were plenty of unused connectors coming from both the chassis and
engine wire harnesses. That makes sense in light of the missing wire now.
Anybody know what 60 flashes means as an error code?
It is not supposed to flash. It will cause a failure at the smog station.
The 60 flashes mean nothing.
An error flash will be a morse code sort of flash, kinda. The actual flash
will be a series of a couple of flashes followed by a pause then more
flashes, a pause, and more flashes. Then the sequence will repeat itself.
Depending on the system the engineers employed, there are dozens of
variations on what codes can be displayed. My Bronco could display a code
such as 562. It would flash 5 times, pause, then flash 6 times and pause,
then flash 2 times, then repeat. If the door was open or the AC was ON or
the radio was working, there could be flashes for these items too.
It doesn't look like a diagnostic code to me either, flashing exactly like
that I have never actually heard of. I understood that diag codes are two
digit, shorter and usually require you to do something beyond start the car
to see it. I suspect it will fail as well but I only set out to get the
lamp working, not fix any new problems it reviels (BTW, the smog levels
measured were all fairly low, the truck passes otherwise). I can check the
operation of most of the sensors but beyond that I'm not sure where else to
I disconnected the battery for a while so it shouldn't have any stored
codes. The flashing might indicate a fundimental miswire.
I've read all your posts in this thread and I'm going to jump in with my
$0.02. I know it is going to sound cruel and heartless - but you need to
turn your back and walk away from this one.
Your working on a vehicle that is a Frankenstein's monster. Just about
everything made in '88 had a CEL. Does the vehicle have an O2 sensor,
a catcon, and fuel injection or a computer-controlled carburetor? If it
then it has an engine computer. And if it has an engine computer it has
If the vehicle has passing emissions, then -all- the vehicle -mechanical-
systems having to do with emissions are good, -and- the engine computer
is connected to a few critical sensors, o2/maf-map/tps and it's still
the fuel injection. But beyond that ALL bets are off. The computer in
the vehicle could have a dozen other sensors it's supposed to be looking at
data from that are either disconnected or are not even there, on account of
the engine swap.
If you ask me (and you didn't but I'm gonna tell you anyway) the day the CEL
stopped working was the day that Clive finished the engine swap using
implements he raided out of his wife's kitchen drawers. Who the hell knows
how the vehicle survived this long after that - for all you know, the owner
used to boff an aircare tech who let her through, and said tech finally made
enough money to buy a pocket pussy. But how is irrelevant. This isn't
your vehicle, and you are not helping the owner take responsibility for
his or her life by letting them avoid responsibility for their vehicle that
This vehicle should have been sold off to someone in the sticks where they
don't require IM testing, after Clive's engine swap. It has no fricken
running around in the middle of a metropolitian area, and whoever arrainged
that to happen was completely irresponsible.
These days the US is awash in used cars. Hell, I had the dickens of a time
selling one of mine last week - and I'll tell you this. For a vehicle that
everything other than the air conditioning worked in it, with good
a set of rear tires with less than 2K miles on them, body straight and
freshly washed and vacuumed, and 50K miles on a rebuilt engine which
had been rebuilt by one of the best rebuilders in the area, do you want to
know what I got for it? $550.00, that's what. It cost me more to insure
the vehicle for a year than the vehicle is worth. Well at least I got the
driveway space back.
If you really want to help the owner, then go out there and help her find
a really good, solid, everything working, used car for under $1K, and
after it's titled in her name, just have her sign the release on the title
and hold the title, and she can pay you $25 a month or whatever until
it's paid off. And take her POS car now and sell it off. The difference
remaining will probably put her owing you less than $500 and she can
probably have that paid in a year.
That's actually HELPING someone to get something better going in their
life. What your doing now isn't helping, it's just bandaiding a rolling
problem that she don't need to have f'ing up her life more right now.
Thats reasonable advice but in CA you cannot legally sell a car without
passing a smog check first so if it fails, it's the junk yard or non-op. I
already give this welfare ho a place to live in, a TV to watch, a phone to
talk on, and a fridge to put her food in (and some food for her daughter)
and countelss tips on how to find a job. and she's not even my ho. I don't
really want to front her the money for a car even a POS since her tab is
already hopeless. (this all came up because the car she was using got
I'd cut her and her truck loose but I still care about keeping her from
screwing up her daughters life.
List it on craigslist in Oregon or Nevada. Oregon does not have statewide
IM testing, it is only in the cities, and the DMV doesen't give a damn about
CA laws. And Nevada is also very easy to sell and register a car in and I
don't think they have IM testing in all areas either. Trucks are still
in the sticks where there's no IM testing, at least, cheap ones are. How
buyer fetches the car is their business, most people just buy a bus ticket
and drive it home. If it's running and priced cheap enough, someone will
Well, right now she is teaching her daughter that it's OK to lie around
and not get a job, and sponge off other people, if this keeps up her
daughter's life is going to be screwed up anyway, just differently. So
there are no easy choices either way. But it's easy to see what is
going on here, I'm sure she is using the nonfunctional truck as an excuse
not to look for a job.
You have my sympathy, I've encountered leeches before in my life
and they have a way of just taking and taking and taking more and
more of your time, energy, and money, until one day you just can't
stand it anymore, daughter or no daughter, the leech then jumps to
another host. They almost have a sixth sense about who will make
a suitable host. If she is under your roof with no job, then your
instincts are right, giving her money is the worst thing you can do.
Your best shot is applying a bit of parenting. Rent a
storage locker, then go through your house and remove every last thing
that smacks of "adult entertainment", that is, all TV sets, all radios,
all fiction books, all magazines, in short, every last possible thing
that could possibly serve as a diversion or provide amusement for
an adult. Call your phone company and switch your landline phone
over to "911 calls only" Stop working on her car. Tell her that
when she gets a job on a bus line, you will bring back magazines
into the house. When she holds the job for a month, you will
turn the phone back on. When she holds it for 6 months you will
bring back the TV set. And so on.
If she pulls the passive agressive "I'll sit and do nothing" then ignore
her. Trust me, they all think they can pull that and win, but they
can't manage it, they don't have the discipline.
Basically, you have a 25 year old child here, who wasn't raised
properly by her own parents. Your going to have to do the raising.
If she doesen't like it, tough, there's always the door. And don't allow
her to continue to hold her daughter over your head as a kind of
lever to keep the situation static. Her daughter isn't your responsibility,
you can make it clear that daughter is welcome TO VISIT if she
decides you have no right to tell her what to do and leaves.
As for the car, you need to make it clear that the car is at the end
of it's life. If she won't sign the title over so that you can dispose of
it at a wrecker and at least get some money out of it, then call the local
city and ask what the procedure is for getting junk cars towed. Make
it clear that if it's towed she will get nothing, otherwise you will hold
whatever the wrecker gives for it.
And seriously, what YOU need is a parenting support group. There's
bound to be at least one in the area. She may not be your kid, but
it sounds like she is acting like a spoiled brat and it also sounds like
you never had the pleasure of raising a spoiled brat (lucky you) and
you don't have the tools to cope with it.
Just keep this in the back of your mind. welfare ho knows she is
taking you for a chump. She may not be smart enough to verbalize
that, but she unconsciously knows it. Well, the fact is that people
don't respect people who they can take advantage of, and so it
is no wonder she is ignoring your advice. You absolutely have to
grow a spine and start applying some tough love - I don't mean
threatening to boot her out the door, I mean basically taking
charge of her life for her, and telling her what to do, just like you
would tell a 12 year old to go clean his room. You don't have to
give her ultimatims, you just have to tell her to do something, then
when she ignores it, you go get in her personal space and stand
over her until she does it, just like your own mom stood over you to
make you eat your peas. Her own mom never did that to her, which
is why she is like she is, and deep down, she really needs someone
to do that.
You MUST use the diagram for the Year, Make, and Model of the vehicle you
are working on. You can fudge this a little bit by selecting a vehicle that
uses the same vintage chassis, ie: Make and Model, but different Year if the
body style of the Year you select and the Year you are working on is the
same. You can not fix this problem on a Ranger by using the schematic from
an Expedition, ANY Expedition.
Since you are in California, the smog system MUST meeet the requirements for
whichever is newer, the vehicle or the engine. If you have an 88, and drop
in a motor from an 84, then you must bring the smog equipment of the motor
UP to the 1988 spec. You have no choice in this. If you have an 88, and drop
in a motor from a 94, then you have to bring the smog equipment of the
vehicle UP to the 1994 spec. You have no choice in this. The smog equipment
MUST be the newer of the motor or the vehicle. You can not reduce the newer
motor to the old chassis, or the newer chassis to the old motor. When the
engine transplant is complete, the smog system must be equal to the newest
Autozone.com has schematics that show the '88 Ranger and clearly indicates
the Check light.
You are correct, one can not sell a car in CA unless it passes smog. This
makes me wonder how you came to be in possession of this truck, it clearly
is not able to pass smog -- it fails the visual test at the very least, and
this means they won't even hook up the machine to sniff the exhaust. This
car won't even get past the referee in a dispute.
On your 88 Check engine light post
It seems you are getting allot of opinions but no answers.
I have a 91 Ranger with the 2.3 4 and I have most of the factory manuals
plus other info. I may be able to assist.
First, make sure the bulb is good on your check engine light. It should
come on when you turn on the ignition and then go out shortly after the
engine starts. If it stays on you have problems. e-mail me at
firstname.lastname@example.org and I'll try to direct you as best I can.
Good point, things change from year to year so any other material would
I suggest he looks at www.alldata.com, I got a subscription for my 91
with them and they have allot of very good info including the EEC IV
And the smog guy doesn't know what he doesn't know.
That lamp isn't supposed to come on KOEO. That's how Ford designed the
early EEC-IV systems...
The OP should seek out the program referee if there is such a thing.
First of all, you are working on an '88 Ranger while using a schematic from
a '93 Explorer. That's just dumb. You may as well fix a 747 wityh a Cesna
manual, they're nearly the same because the both have wheels for landing,
wings for flying, a vertical stabalizer, and two sets of controls in the
cockpit. The main difference is the number of passengers they carry, but the
wires should be the same.
Several people posted a link to the Ranger/Bronco II that covers the year
you are working on. Try using the correct diagram and see what happens.
I'm going to advise the owner to find a new mechanic if he asks.
You get real frustrated reading between the lines don't you?
What I would really like is for someone who has that model or the EVTM from
that exact year to factually confirm or deny some of the assumptions I have
had to work with. But that guy is not online this week I guess :(
I'm frustrated that you use the equivelent of a 747 manual to fix your
Cesna. You have been provided the exact schematic you need, but continue to
use the one you have from a different year, make, and model truck than the
truck you are working on.
Your Ranger might say Ford on the grille, but it's a Mazda. The Expedition
manual has nothing in common once you get past the Ford emblem on the cover.
I'm frustrated too by the fact that I couldn't find the EVTM for the 88
ranger on eBay, half, from ford, other bookstores or the library. If you
mean that you want me to buy a subscription to one of the pay repair sites
then you can send me the money. Beyond that, I have not "been provided the
exact schematic you need". I already explained the problem with the
Autozone sheets, they lack a caption to link them tio a year of engine.
Telling me where I can buy something is not the same as "Providing"
Good thing I don't have an Expedition, the fuel cost would kill me. I drive
an 08 Escape Hybrid now and don't expect it's wiring to match the older
Fords. "Your Ranger might say Ford on the grille, but it's a Mazda" The
Explorer is a Mazda too, uses the exact same manual transmission as similar
year mazda trucks.
The Ranger and Explorer (and Aerostar) do in fact share the very same shop
manual published by ford (at least in 92-94 maybe more I didn't bother to
look). Depending on the year and engine the two vehicles share many of the
same components. It was good enough, I got the lamp to light, the flashing
is an entirely new problem AFAIK, hidden by the old. There was no Explorer
in 88 but the wire colors and connector pinouts are exactly the same behind
the dashboard. You may lack the flexibility to adapt, I don't.
Ask them if they still have this item number...
It should be what you seek...
88 Ranger & Bronco II Electrical and Vacuum troubleshooting manual
I'm just a satisfied customer...
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