Just curious if it is remotely possible to hone cylinder walls with the
crankshaft installed, rods and pistons removed. Assuming the rod
journals were ok... it's a 1.9L EFI in a 90 Escort GT. As much as I
would like to, I'm not pulling the block out of the car. I'm just
looking for an easy in/out to get new rings installed. Realizing of
course this may not at all be possible without eating the whole
enchilada... and getting the short block totally rebuilt.
Yes... you can protect the crank throws and (I'm a little hesitant to use
the term "hone") break the glaze on the cylinder walls... In years gone by,
some shops were equipped to even bore cylinders with the block "in situ" - I
wouldn't try this with modernish motors.
Of course, you will want to rent a cylinder bore gauge to check for taper
and out of round before you commit any money to this. No amount of homing
can save a worn cylinder.
FWIW, we re-ring our hotrod motors quite often to maintain cylinder seal...
re-ringing a street motor buys very little time and can can be
counterproductive - especially if faced with worn ring lands or pistons well
on their way to collapsing.
If it were mine and I felt it was worth doing at all, there would be a
rebore and a crank grind in that short blocks future...
Right now I'm at a point where I can get the head checked out and just
put the top end and everything else back together. Short of any easy
way to re-ring the pistons, I figure if I start messing with the rings
and cylinders it's all or nothing, finish the block and everything
right or just let it all rust. So if I leave stop where I'm at I
should be driving this thing sometime in the future. There is some
cross-hatch still visible and the walls aren't too shiny, not much if
any ridge built up either. Not bad for 164k miles.
That technique of honing the block in place used to be real popular in
the 50's. We were kids and everything burned lots of oil by the time we
acquired it so it was necessary at the time. It was a good learning
experience. Thinking back though, Jim is correct in that you don't get
too far down the road with those rerings. And I can remember some worn
cranks that probably were due to contamination during the work. With
today's engines, and given what you observed, finish up with the head
and drive it until you have to do a complete rebuild if ever.
if your going to do the head, id sure as hell put new pistons and
rings in,and rod brgs .valve job can put alt more pressure on some old
pstons and rings. just for giggles ,roll in some new mains..lucas
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