I have 1987 Coachamn Class C RV which is on a Ford E350 chasis. I have
a problem with A/C system.
O rings are leaking in the quick-connect. I got the tool to seperate
the quick-connect. When I push the tool in, I can hear the spring snap
back, but I still can't disconnect it. I tried several things from
pulling, pushing, using vice grips and screw driver, but nothing works.
Has anyone came aross this situation? Any advice on how to get it
seperated to change the O rings?
As a last resort, if I can't get it seperated, I was thinking of
pooring some apoxy into the joint to keep it from leaking. :) Any
Yes, the system is discharged. Besides, with O rings leaking, there was
not much to discharge. I guess I will have to soak the heck out of the
connections with penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or so.
they get dirt and crap wedged in there soak it down alternating days
with brake cleaner and penetrating fluid... its should come apart ...
note vise grips may have made the housing out of round and now o-rings
wont work you may have to replace the hose as well... tks ford for those
crappy connectors.... (fuel lines too) what was wrong with flare nuts
like chevy had or even chryslers one piece braket with one bolt...
There are spring lock disconnect tools, and then there are good spring lock
tools. The ones sold at most chain parts stores (Auto zone, Advance,
one step up from junk and will only work on good, clean fittings. These tools
All white one piece plastic that snap over the line. (The better of the bad),
Multi colored one piece plastic, flat with a ring around the center hole. (The
absolute worst). Each size is a different color. I've been there and done that
numerous times with these tools when I didn't have my "good" set with me. They
usually as bad as not having the tool at all.
The white ones are a slightly stiffer plastic and work better, you have a
you have the multi-colored ones, you may as well stop now.
The "real spring lock tools" are 2 pieces, hinged and spring loaded and made
plastic. They clamp around the entire fitting. IIRC, they are about $50 for a
covers the AC sizes. There are also 2 sizes for fuel lines. NAPA used to carry
got mine from MAC Tools. They were pricy but they have paid for themselves many
over. Using my set, I've only had 3 SL fittings that I couldn't separate. That's
~20 years and all 3 were Gen I Taurus Evaporator outlet fittings. There was some
electrolysis going on. Ford Tempo evap. outlets could be tough also. Your E-van
shouldn't be at all difficult.
Don't do the epoxy thing. The oil will weaken the epoxy and it will leak. Then
real repair will much cost more. Buy the correct tools and fix it right. You
still save $$$. Stay away from "AC system sealers", they can wreak havoc on your
system and cause HUGE repair bills when they don't work.
I'm sure you are aware that, since the system is empty, you need to replace
accumulator\receiver-dryer and pull a hard vacuum on the system before you
In case you didn't know, thats what you have to do. Especially on a motor home
That's an R-12 system. Being an E-350 motor home chassis, It will take poorly
R-134a conversion, if that is what you're considering, especially if the cab AC
tied into the living compartment AC (I can't see Coachmen doing this, but
possible). I know this from experience. The condenser is too small and the
temps are too high. Vans in general are marginal candidates for conversion. IF
converting to R-134a and IF the front AC isn't tied into the rear you also need
change the orifice tube to the next size smaller (Orange, IIRC).
I'm not trying to be a smartass or talk you out of fixing your problem, I'm
trying to let you in on the facts. AC repair is more than just fixing the leak
charging the system. if you need some assistance, email me and I may be able to
Regards, Tom Adkins
PS, At least check out the Forum at www.aircondition.org. They can offer a lot
you can also try duralcool the ac guys up here in canada are having
great luck with it in r 12 systems.. in fact my buddy skip has a
catering truck ie lunchwagon and we got it charged up with duracool ...
never adjusted the thermostat or anything started blowing near freaazing
air out right away. any colder and the evap would freeze. the old guy
(he has been doing ac for more than 30 years claims it usually works as
good or better than r 12.. only thing is you should upgrade the hoses to
new lines as it may (unproven yet) not work well with older r12 hoses
Thanks Tom, you gave me some good points. You are right, I was just
going to replace the O rings and recharge the system. I guess I will
have to read up more before I continue.
No, the living compartment has a seperate AC from the Cab.
As far as underhood temps, yes, they used to be high, but once I
replaced manifold with headers, it is much cooler now.
I tried to go the web site you mentioned, www.aircondition.org , but
the web site is for sale. Did they discontinue or is the name wrong?
Once again, thanks. I will do some more research, and if I have
questions I will email you.
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