Vectra a/c question

Removing bumber helped no end. Plenty of access to work. Some screws sheared but they were only into speed nuts so easy to mend.

Carefully bent pipe from drier to align properly onto radiator - joint still leaks. Added a second "O" ring - seals OK, but joint sits at an odd angle because the one-sided arrangement with the retaining screw pulls asymmetrically. Can't see any way to improve this ...

Would taking that little extra time to remove the bumper in the first place have enabled you to fit the condenser without having to bugger the factory joint to the dryer up?

In retrospect - yes. But I was relying on a technician with years of experience in the car a/c business who thought it ought to be possible without, and was surprised that the radiator came with the drier attached.

Having said that, even then, I think it would have been necessary to slacken the joint to allow some movement in order to get the complete assembly into place. Plus remove the plastic duct connecting to the right hand side (as viewed from driver's seat) of the intercooler, if that were possible; and the o/s headlamp.

Find a new garage. Drier should be replaced, not re-use the old one, and ive done several of these, yes access is tight, but not very difficult, always remove the bumper complete. New o-rings lubed in PAG oil should always be used. I expect one of the o rings has snagged tightening up the union.

Tim..

The saga continues ...

Found a new garage - call him CG. Explained history of work at original garage - call him SR - (original radiator damaged by a stone or something, replacement bought, not fitted properly until bumper removed, but then appeared to work). Since then not cooling properly after 2 weeks of daily use in hot weather; green dye clearly leaking from joint at top of radiator; can't see bottom joint properly without removing bumper.

Some discussion with CG; evidently all new O-rings are green, yet SR used grey ones (perhaps old stock, and therefore ineffective?).

I remove bumper and take car to CG.

There CG evacuates system and inspects. Comments that about 100mL of dye came out, when there should only be about 5mL altogether in system. Recollect that machine used by SR had gone faulty in use - perhaps it had injected too much dye?

CG can't improve alignment of bottom joint, so re-assembles with new O-ring correctly lubricated with PAG oil.

Similarly CG re-assembles top joint using new O-ring lubricated with PAG oil. He then connects to his machine, and evacuates system. Machine holds vacuum for an hour, and if no inward leaks it then automatically refills system. CG runs a/c for a while, inspects - can't see any leaks.

I collect car - inspect - no apparent green leaks. I ask whether machine tests for leaks at pressure rather than with vacuum - evidently not - curious!

I drive it home (2 miles) using a/c, then re-fit the bumper.

Run a/c again - I can clearly see tiny green bubbles oozing from top joint and drips of green dye falling onto plastic pan between bottom of bumper and engine. Nut closing this joint is tight - I can turn it a few degrees but worry that any more will shear it off ...

Engine off, leave 2 hours, then I wipe the top joint with soapy water - bubbles appear all round joint.

So no improvement.

Are there any modification kits available to improve the seal of these joints?

Or should I find yet another garage? Are there competent specialists in this business?

Ideas?

Green (industrial rather than "decorative") O-rings are likely to be fluorocarbon / FKM / viton (different terms for the same thing). I have seen grey O-rings and have a vague suspicion they might have been silicone, but a quick google doesn't help. Viton is, I think, correct for aircon.

hnbr is the green type suitable for 134a refrigerant