Ford Tempo: Bleeding Brakes

I am fixing the brakes on my Ford Tempo--sorry for any redundant threads. I proceeded OK on the driver's side, now I'm on the passenger's side.

Driver's side went smoothly, passenger side less so. The issue: no matter how hard I clamp down on the caliper with the C-clamp, it just simply will not move. It will NOT go down.

Someone said I could try bleeding the brakes, this should make it resume. My hunch, though--and I realize I am only a weekend warrior--but my hunch is that the calipers are just plain gone. True?

The more important question, though--if I do need to "bleed the brakes," where is the screw for that? The guy on the phone described it but his description helped me none at all.

Again, note: I am FINISHED with the left (driver's) side, wheel is back on & everything. I'm trying not to have to "go there" again if I can help it.

Tips?

LRH

Reply to
Larry R Harrison Jr
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"Larry R Harrison Jr" wrote in news:lqtLe.3058$Ji4.1754@fed1read03:

Good news.. You Dont HAVE to bleed the brakes, unless you replace the caliper ..

Bad news.. Your caliper is done, rusted, BAD if it doesnt retract. Werent the pads worn unevenly on that side? ALWYS check pad wear to diagnose a problem.

The bleeder screw is on the top of the cylinder as it's mounted.. looks sort of like a grease fitting, may have a rubber boot on it.

Sorry

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

"Larry R Harrison Jr" wrote in news:lqtLe.3058$Ji4.1754@fed1read03:

tip # 2

Jackstands come in pairs for a reason. Never remount wheels until the job is COMPLETELY done

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

"Larry R Harrison Jr" wrote in news:lqtLe.3058$Ji4.1754@fed1read03:

Tip # 3

If one caliper is rusty and locks.. the second usually aint far behind.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

I will have to replace the caliper. I already removed the brake fluid tubing feeding into it (put it back on as I "shut down" doing anymore car work today 'til friends can come over tomorrow & help). No matter how hard I pressed with the C-clamp, even to the point of having to use the HAMMER the C-clamp's "turning crank" to make it go right in small increments, even with the master cylinder's cap removed, it refused to retract even a FRACTION of an inch. (By contrast, the one on the left-hand side went in as smoothly as you could ask.)

I did find this website which explains how to do this:

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(It's Autozone's website.)

LRH

Reply to
Larry R Harrison Jr

"Larry R Harrison Jr" wrote in news:A5wLe.3070$Ji4.1247@fed1read03:

Tip# 1.5

They will ALWAYS retract easily if they are not rusted / contaminated.

Even if you DID get it to move, it would just hang up again

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

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