My experience has been with trucks mainly but most of the above parts are
not recommended for reuse for the reason given in Chiltons. That said, I
have reused some of the above and never had a problem, of which I was aware.
The torque requirements in the front suspension is critical because of
steering. The one odd man out is the inboard halfshaft circlips. These
usually are deformed during removal and simply won't do their intended job,
perhaps, if reused. Bottom line - its your front end (your car's actually)
and your rear end if something fails.
Circlips/snap rings should never be reused! The very act of installing, then
removing them destroys some of their tension. It's one thing to re-use them
in a photocopier, and quite another on a car or motorcycle, where it is much
more critical. The same holds true for spirol pins/roll pins. Do you really
want to risk life and limb over such an inexpensive part?
The engineers demand that some select hardware is changed at the time of
The reasons can be varied... Obviously cotter pins, snap rings, spring pins
would be amongst those items changed... snap rings on a selective basis as
described by these same engineers or if there is any apparent damage...
Torque to yield bolts....' Nuff said.
Locking nuts... both nylon insert and stover variety... once they have done
their job and then been removed, they are now suspect...
Many bolts are called as replacement items simply because they have sealer
or thread lock applied to them... If you do re-use hardware, follow a rule
of thumb - it should go back in with fresh whatever it had on to begin
Often, we will see fasteners that have torque recommendations much higher
than the bolt size would indicate.... and no advise to indicate that these
are a one time use only... One glaring example are diesel engine fuel
injector hold downs... On the 6.0, this would be an 8mm bolt that gets
torqued to 26 ft/lb where one would expect to see something in the range of
15 - 20 ft/lb.
Any of these engineers has no control over how bolts will be used or
re-used... signing off on any re-use clauses could well be a career ending
move for an engineer unlucky enough to have the wrong audience...
Common sense should be the order of the day (you will find that some
fasteners are available locally at most any dealer while others have just
never seen any demand to stock) when deciding on whethe to re-use hardware
FWIW, if the WSM says "remove and discard", Ford pays for the new fasteners
when the repair involved is performed under warranty.
I do not think any of the parts listed above (or below) are "torque to
Although, the spindle nuts, i.e., the wheel hub retainer nuts, I
believe have a nylon insert; however, none of the aftermarket retail
stores and only one of five local Ford parts departments carries them.
If this was your 2002 Ford Taurus, would you replace them?
If ford parts doesn't carry them that's an indication their mechanics
don't routinely replace them. Since most, if not all, of the stuff
you listed doesn't get torque to yield and is retained with cotter
pins I would not be particularly worried about reusing them other then
Depends if they never stocked them, or are out of them (and possibly
can't get them). Often items that need replacement on a regular basis
on a car more than 5 years old are OUT OF STOCK because more were sold
than themanufacturer counted on.
FORD is for some reason worse for this than some other companies.
Years ago, my girlfriend had her back brakes of her Mazda done at a Midas
shop. About 200 miles later, as she was driving, her back driver's side
tire came off (tire, drum, etc). The reason was Midas re-used the the
spindle nut when reinstalling the drum. This nut was what Mazda called in
thier parts list a "crush nut" which is basically a nut with a slightly
different major diameter (the bottom of the inside threads) than the
spindle. The action of installation cut the spindle threads into the crush
nut, thereby locking it when installed. If you loosened or removed the nut,
it had to be thrown away. Very stupid design (or smart if you look at the
fact that they charged $5 a nut at the time and they were a dealer only
The moral of the story is that if the nut is a castle nut and cotter pin
design or anything that has a secondary retension device (hardware), replace
the cotter pin, retaining ring, etc. but the nut is fine. But if the nut is
a self locking type (either nylon or something similar to the above crush
nut) with no other mechanical retension, it is suspect - It's you're ass
riding in the car and for the couple bucks for the new hardware it's
probably worth it.
With the "crush nut" if it could be tightened PAST it's initial
location so solid material was over the "keyway" it could be safely
re-used by punching down "virgin" metal into the slot. Otherwise
replacement WAS mandatory.
An apprentice left the cotter key out of an MG one time - the wheel
fell off on ME. That was a ride!!
I will admit that I reuse many of the fasteners. Then again, I have
had to repair many failed fasteners. Used halfshaft clips bent and
jambed inside the tranny. Had to use a sledge hammer to get the shaft
to come out (so much for a core deposit). Ball joint nut, threads
worn from repeated over tightening. During hard bounce, threads let
go and the carter pin sheared, car laying on the ground. I have
removed pinch nuts where the flated metal had already started to tear
from reuse. And your question doesn't cover some of the new "carbon
bolts" that stretch during every tightening. They say to replace
because the part either gets damaged during install or removal. To
reverse your question, if you don't have the experiance to remove the
part without damage and to inspect it for reuse, you need to replace
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