That sounds like a bad turn signal switch - the brake light leads go
through the turn signal switch to determine steady (brake) or blinking
(turn) indications. If the brake contact sending brake light power to
the left lamp goes open when you select right, that would do it.
--<< Bruce >>--
I had the same problem with my e150.
Got pulled over 2 times and was told to fix it.
I finally started to take a look at it. Sadly I couldn't figure
it out on my own. After checking everything with a continuity
tester and it all checked out, and looking in the book and
wiring diagram, it still had the problem.
I took it to a mechanic, and he found a short in the ground. All he
did was cut off the old socket and put in a new socket on the side
that was acting up.
And that is not the only time an electrical problem was some kind
of short to ground problem. In this case all that needed to be done
was replace the light socket.
I think the socket was 3 dollar part or something.
my explaination is from having my van repaired like 10 years ago. I
didn't remember what the mechanic said. I was only trying to help.
Bad ground sounds correct. Thanks for correcting me.
<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
Thank all of you for your help.
I started out to fix the problem by the parts chasing method. I
started with the cheapest to the expensive parts. 1) Replaced rear
light bulbs, no change. 2) Swapped the light sockets to try to move
the problem, no change. 3) Replaced the Turn/Hazard/Controls relay, no
change. 4) Moved the relays with the part number around to try to move
the problem, no change. 5) Replaced the Ford's name Multi-Function
Switch (Turn Signal/Hazard/Wiper Switch), fixed the problem. Bruce was
correct, it was the switch.
Again thank all of you for your help.
It kind of sounded like it was the switch, though the people that
said "Open Ground" had a point - but usually there's much more
'general weirdness' associated with an open ground, like taillights
and marker lights that go out or blink on the other side when you step
on the brakes.
I cringed as you said you were working your way through it by
replacing parts. "Throwing parts at the problem" can get really
expensive really fast. Bulbs are cheap and probably due on general
principles, but relays are a bit pricey, and those multi-function
switches... If you're wrong, Big Ouch.
They don't take returns on electrical parts - and they shouldn't
take them either, they have no way to know if you are being honest
about never installing the part, or the problem was elsewhere and you
blew up the new part trying to diagnose it. Or worse, you installed
the new part, are handing them back the bad part and doing the repairs
(This is why I won't take an open box part that looks to have been
installed once already - unless it's the last one, I REALLY need to
fix the whatever, and the clerk notes that it appears to be used on
the slip so I can get credit if it's Pre-Blown...)
For next time remember that you can use a test light to test the
relays and switches, if you have a good wiring diagram so you know for
sure what to look for and on which lead. You would throw the TSS into
Right Turn, see that the power is coming in OK on the lead from the
Brake switch, and not leaving on the Left Rear Stoplamp line like it
And for relays, swapping around works if there are multiples of the
same model on the car. Just remember to tag them so you can get the
right ones back to their original sockets.
--<< Bruce >>--
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