We are trying to replace the air conditioning compressor on a 1994 Ford
Taurus with a 3.0L engine. We have run into issues removing the power
steering and alternator bracket. The Chilton manual gives no help,
other than to state the obvious that the compressor can't be removed
from below. But it does not tell how to access it from above. Does
anyone have any advice as to how to remove the bracket to access the
compressor? Or is there a way to remove the compressor another way?
Thanks for any help.
Access is a problem. The bolts are long going into the AC compressor.
The best way to get the PS pump off is first disconnect the hoses to the
pump. You don't remove the pump directly. you leave the pulley on the
pump. You remove the serp belt. remove the tensioner. then pull off the
bracket for the PS pump and remove it as an assembly. You don't remove
the PS pump from its mount bracket. You now have a clear shot from the
top. But your still boned from the radiator. Its possible to get the
pump off with the radiator in, but chances are you will bump it
in the process. If your changing the compressor, you need to get
a AC fitting tool and replace ALL the Orings on the hoses.
Before you do any of this, i would degrease the motor well in the
area your going to be working in.
Why are you changing the compressor? is it R12 ore R134?
First of all, thank you for your information about accessing the
In answer to your questions, it uses R134. The compressor had blown
out, and after destroying a serpentine belt, the clutch pulley is out
of line and seemingly broken, and it was thought best to change the
whole unit after that sequence of events.
If the compressor seized maybe you should flush out everything:
Condensor, coil, liquid and suction lines.
Put in a new accumulator/dryer and expansion valve.
Most places won't warranty a new compressor without changing those two
parts. I'm going through
the motions right now on an old 90 Escort GT. I plan on getting a
robinair flush gun and some
solvent or mineral spirits to clean out the components I mentioned
above. Then also an R134a manifold
set and vacuum pump to make sure I can pull a good vacuum, to make sure
the seal is good before I charge it again.
just a note, sleepdog... the point of pulling the deep vacuum is to get all
the moisture out.
It also helps determine the seal of the system but that's secondary.
Given the sealing technology, it's not too unusual for a system to hold a
vacuum forever... and still leak too much to be called fixed. The
differential pressures are opposite direction.
And sometimes, a vacuum wont hold long but filling with refrig, you cant
find a leak with a professional sniffer.
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
If your real lucky, the compressor clutch shelled and you could put
a replacement clutch on your existing compressor. What was the chain of
events that caused it? It will take a special tool to get the clutch
assembly off. If the compressor is seized its history.
You could take a chance on a junk yard unit. Make sure its off a R134
car if you do.
I hope you got all the tools to do the job. Vacuum pump, gauges, fitting
tools, clutch tools etc.
R134 has sure gone up in the last year too.
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