1992 ford ranger 4x4 electronic control

I have a 1992 ford ranger 4x4 with electronic 4x4 engagement. When I try to engage the 4x4 mode; by depressing the 4x4 modulator button the indicator light does not go on[ the transfer case also does not engage]. I have tried depressing both the 4x4 and low range buttons, in various combinations and there is still no light indicators that go on as well no transfer case action. I have checked the fuse under the hood and it is in good condition. I had the truck in 4x4 just last week but it will not engage now. Can you give me an idea of where I may look to find the problem. I have a Haynes Ford Ranger & Bronco Repair Manual 1982 thru 1992, but it does not have very much info on this, it only has a piece in it for the modulator removal, no diagnostics or trouble shooting info

Most of the time when that kind of problem starts happening it due to the shift motor that's mounted on the transfer case. I repaired mine twice and last time I bought a new shift motor. They aren't very expensive, around $130. Try

formatting link

Instructions:

From snipped-for-privacy@mindspring.com Tues DEC 22 09:29:01 1998 Path: news.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.gtei.net!firehose.mindspring.com!not-for-mail From: "Chris Putnam" Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer Subject: Re: 4wd not engaging Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:29:01 -0500 Organization: MindSpring Enterprises Lines: 43 Message-ID: References:

NNTP-Posting-Host: 26.b2.98.c2 X-Server-Date: 22 Dec 1998 16:28:45 GMT X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Xref: news.primenet.com rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer:46549

Tah dah!

It took a while, but I was able to remove the transfer case motor, disassemble and clean the motor, reinstall, reset and it is working better than new. Dr. Bob's and the other information on Jeff Singleton's website were excellent.

formatting link

(this website no longerexists)

Admittedly, I didn't read all the info on Jeff's site, so I had to fumble through some of it (mainly the motor disassembly and shaft alignment) on my own.

Here's my additional info to the info I found there:

1) As several people stated, you do NOT have to drain the transfer case fluid to remove the motor. 2) The motor is MUCH easier to work on out from under the vehicle. The only trick is what to do with the permanent wire coming out of the transfer case into the wiring harness connector on the motor. As another contributer offered, you can remove this wire (the center pin on my '93) by removing the lock from inside the connector. I used a large paperclip, straightened with a very small bend (90 degrees, ~1 mm) on the end to hook beneath the restraining plug to pull it out from amongst the pins. This allows the lock on the center pin to be gently move to the side allowing the wire and pin to be pulled out from the back. Fortunately, the other pins behaved and stayed in place during this procedure. You could do the speed sensor wires the same way, but I just removed the speed sensor from the transfer case and took it with the wiring harness. 3) after reassembly and reinstallation, I reconnected the battery, started the engine and gave it a try. Nothing... I couldn't believe it since I had tested and heard the motor turn before putting it back on the shaft. Out of desperation, I went back and hit the reset button on the electronic controller one last time. The mysterious red light reappeared, but this hadn't made a difference before the motor was removed and cleaned. I tried one last time and it worked!!!

~$300 saved and mechanical fulfillment at the same time!

Thanks, everyone.

-Chris