I have a 2000 Ranger 2wd. Most of the time I have to really fight with the stick shift to get it into 1st gear. If I am rolling just slightly, it usually slips into place without too much pressure on the shift stick.
Can anybody tell me what's wrong and what the fix might be?
Thanks!
If you turn the engine off, is it easy to shift into gear? If it is, then mostly likely you have a clutch problem (might include some or all of the following - clutch plate, pressure plate, flywheel, pilot bearing, release bearing, adjustment).
How about reverse? Is it easy?
Ed
Ed, It seems to shift okay with the engine off and reverse shifting is no problem either. I originally thought it might be some kind of shifter linkage misalignment or adjustment problem. If it is any of the components you listed, which I believe are all internal to the clutch housing, then why is the problem only with first gear and not ALL of the gears??!! You could be right, but I just don't want to fix something that isn't broken. I've done that before (DUHHH!). This is why I suspect a shift linkage adjustment or some problem internal to the gearbox! Gears other than 1st gear,and reverse usually have something called a 'synchromesher' to synchronize meshing gears that are at different rotating speeds. Thank you very much for the good ideas! I'll look into them....
Check your hydraulic clutch fluid. If its low you need to fill it and bleed it.
There is no "linkage" per say. First has syncos too. other wise when you down shift in to first you would have to double clutch. The reason it doest give you fits going into other gears is because you are rolling and the syncs are helping you. If you pump the clutch pedal two three times fast does it go in easy then? That will point to a problem with the hydraulic clutch system. Most pros driving big rigs don't use the clutch at all when shifting once the truck is rolling
Whitelightning
I've had a similar problem, only with difficulty shifting from 2nd to 3rd; never a problem with other gears. My Ranger is a 2002 with < 5K on her; she has had the problem since she was new. Only happens about 20% of the time. I brought it into the dealer, and they couldn't reproduce the problem. Any ideas?
Jay - Sounds like air in the hydraulic line between the master and slave in the clutch system -- assuming that the reservoir has enough clutch fluid. Air compresses; hydraulic fluid (essentially) does not. Pumping the pedal on the brake system causes the air to compress and the line pressure goes up. This allows the brake calipers to reach pressure high enough to operate the caliper pistons (even with air in the line!). This would seem to be true also for the clutch hydraulic system. This is what Ed and the other guys were trying to tell me (pump the clutch pedal!!). If needed there should be a bleeder on the transmission (according to the Haynes manual). It makes sense now. If the clutch isn't depressed far enough, shifting can be difficult. The slave plays a role in this. Also, the manual says to make sure the shift stick knob is straight +/-10 degrees. On some vehicle types, it doesn't matter since rotating the knob doesn't affect the position of the stick itself. I think I know what to do now. You guys are all regular geniuses. You pointed me in the right direction to go. Thanks!
The other geas are easy becasue the truck is moving and the syncro's job is easier. Definitely sounds like a clutch related problem to me.
C4 CHECK FOR AIR IN THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
Check reserve. Block wheels and set parking brake. With the vehicle in REVERSE, clutch disengaged, and engine idling, move the shift lever to a position halfway between reverse and neutral. Slowly engage the clutch, until gear clash can be heard. While maintaining light pressure on shift knob, towards engagement in REVERSE, slowly depress the clutch pedal. There will be a point of pedal travel where the gear clash stops, and the shift lever slips easily into gear. From this point to the floor is the reserve. The reserve is the amount of additional travel available after the engine and transmission are completely separated by the clutch.
Is the reserve greater than 25 mm (1 in)? Yes GO to C5 .
No REFER to Bleed Procedure-On-Vehicle in this section.
C5 CHECK THE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE Remove the clutch pressure plate. Refer to Section 308-01 . Inspect the clutch pressure plate for wear or runout. Refer to Pressure Plate Check in this section.
Are there any signs of excessive wear or runout to the clutch pressure plate? Yes INSTALL a new clutch pressure plate. REFER to Section 308-01 .
No GO to C6 . C6 INSPECT THE CLUTCH DISC Carry out the clutch disc inspection procedure in this section.
Is the clutch disc OK? Yes VERIFY the customer concern. RETURN to the symptom chart if necessary.
No INSTALL a new clutch disc. REFER to Section 308-01 . TEST the system for normal operation.
Ed, I'll start checking these symptoms. Thanks for looking that up! Any idea where I can get some extensive manuals for a reasonable price? I prefer the electronic form..... Thanks again... Mike
Like Mike says - bleed the clutch. It's a real pain to do properly because the master cylinder traps the air. Before you get started, pop the rubber inspection cover off the bell housing, say a prayer, and look or feel for signs of hydraulic fluid pooled inside the bottom of the bell housing. Also look for signs of wetting of the slave cylinder. If you don't find any leaking fluid consider yourself lucky because changing the slave cylinder makes bleeding the clutch seem real easy. Post back if you need tips on bleeding the clutch.
I would first try to change the tranny fluid, when the oil gets thick the synchros just don't slide that good causing it to block @ times
Had a few Explorers doing that
Good luck
EBAY - search for Ford Service DVD. Or Alldata
Ed
Hard shifting into first when stopped, or grinding when shifting into first or reverse when stopped are classic symptoms of a clutch not fully releasing. You don't see it in the other gears becasue when you shift into those gears the vehicle is moving (and all tranmission elements are in moting) which makes it easier for the synchronizers to overcome the clutch drag. I suspect your truck is popping out of first gear becasue you have worn down the teeth on the 1st gear engagement collar by grinding into first gear so many times. So it is likely you need both a clutch and a transmission rebuild.
Ed
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.