f150 92' exhaust system

hey all, need to replace my entire exhaust system (cat and all). the hangers rusted and dropped breaking at a lot of the joints. is this a job an intermediate backyard mechanic can handle? meineke wants about

1500 for it and i can't justify that right now.

thx

Reply to
rottyguy70
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Replacing all of it is not as bad work wise and replacing some of it. THe hardest part will be the exhaust manifold connections. If you can get the the rest will be easy because you can cut the rest off if need be.

Reply to
SnoMan

ugh.. 2 exhaust manifold connections, four bolts. got 3 off and one broke.. sigh. any ideas anyone? tried all sorts of lubricants (wd40, crc, etc) and vice grips and got nothing. long f'ing day.

Reply to
rottyguy70

Heat. Ox aceltaline. get the stud and threads red hot then try to turn it out. I always have good luck doing it as soon as the flame is away, but others say walk away and come back later. Personal choice. Also atf on it when it's warm, let it soak overnight, the ATF will wick down into the threads- so I've been told. Other than that remove it and tap it out.

Reply to
Steve H

I've used a modified method of this and it works very very well. Hit the stud with the torch (Oxy/Acetelyn or propane works) until it's nice and hot. Hose it down with WD-40 (Ya might get some flames until it cools down enough) and then remove it. I've never had to do this more than twice to get a seized bolt out.

Reply to
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

the bolt is mounted sideways and buried near the engine deep down (which is why i'm nervous about the torch). is the intent of the wd40 to slip between the bolt and the housing?

Reply to
rottyguy70

To be honest, I don't know what the WD40 does. I was told to try this method by an old-school mechanic friend of my dad's (Worked on school busses for nearly 40 years) years and years ago. It's never failed me thus far.

Reply to
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

welp, have tried heat and lubricating liquids to no avail. the bolt has broken 3x and i'm down to a nub on one side :-(

my last resort is to just put the exhaust on and hope that the 3bolts will be sufficient. however, i think i can wrap the one side with either wire and or tape to keep in snug. does anyone know of a good heat resistance twine (i've seen some thermal wrap for headers but have never seen any thermal twine) .

thx

Reply to
rottyguy70

well, have tried everything.. heat, lubrication, etc. the bolt has now broken 3 times. i don't think drilling is an option since it's mounted sideways and room is an issue. looks like i'll have to strap this thing on and hope 3 bolts will do it. i would, however, like to wrap the one side with thermal wire and/or tape. i've seen the tape for headers before but never seen the twine. does anyone know of a good heat resistant twine/wire that i could use to give it more stability?

thx

Reply to
rottyguy70

You need a LOT of heat. You need to get the flange it is threaded into cherry red and they remove bolt while it is still red. (cast iron expands quicker than the bolt does and the heat will make it loose its grip)

Reply to
SnoMan

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