Help with Stuck Brake Caliper spring bolt - frozen...

rubber

Try smacking them HARD with a hammer a few times because sometimes the vibration it sets up can loosen rust hold them. You could heat the calipers some too (300 degrees or so)

"SnoMan" wrote: > [quote:eb6dbd74a6="treebeach"][b:eb6dbd74a6]HELP?! Stuck brake > caliper bolt spring...[/b:eb6dbd74a6] > > I was replacing my front brake pads on my 98 Ranger and the > upper and lower bolts that screw into the "spring pins" the > ones with the rubber boots - one of them is completly frozen, > won't move. I have tried LOTS of things... please, any > suggestions besides buying a new caliper?? > > Thanks... I need my truck back tomorrow! > > Tree[/quote:eb6dbd74a6] > > Try smacking them HARD with a hammer a few times because > sometimes the vibration it sets up can loosen rust hold them. > You could heat the calipers some too (300 degrees or so)

Hey SnoMan,

The heat trick worked like a gem. The hammering just beat the snot out of it.

I have a little shutter though now at low speeds when coming to a complete stop. Thinking it?s the pads readjusting to the worn rotors from the old stuck pin. What cha think?

Thanks! Tree

Were they rotors glazed or hot spoted? Also did you use hard pads or soft ones? Also you did put so grease on the threads of the new bolt right so you do not have to go thru this again.

you shoulda replaced the rotors

Next time, use a brass hammer. The face of the hammer with get effed up, but it won't damage the bolt.

Possibly warped rotor.. Got the same thing going on with my SuperDuty.. One of these days I gotta change out the bad rotor..

Not replacing the rotors will will your new pads quickly.

You're right that a nice new (flat) pad will not line up nicely with an old worn (grooved) rotor.

-D

This is overrated. I have some rotors that are 16 to 26 years old that are still fine. THe trick is not to usse the very hard pads that some push because something has to "give" in brakes for all the heat and fricton of stopping and hard pads will eat the rotors. I use softer pads and change them a little more often without needing to change rotors with about every brakejob.

"SnoMan" wrote: > [quote:29d3245b10="Derrick Hudson"] > > Not replacing the rotors will will your new pads quickly. > > You're right that a nice new (flat) pad will not line up > nicely with > an old worn (grooved) rotor. > > -D > [/quote:29d3245b10] > > This is overrated. I have some rotors that are 16 to 26 years > old that are still fine. THe trick is not to usse the very > hard pads that some push because something has to "give" in > brakes for all the heat and fricton of stopping and hard pads > will eat the rotors. I use softer pads and change them a > little more often without needing to change rotors with about > every brakejob.

Wow, I?m feeling a little silly. Didn?t realize there were different compounds when talking stock type of parts (not racing here...). I bought the pads that the computer at the local parts store pulled up for my truck. Geez, feeling a little rookiesq here.

Thanks for all the great feedback you guys.

I think the rotor is roughed up in a bad way from that stuck spring bolt. The outter pad and the upper portion of the inner pad looked worn but normal. The lower part of the inside pad looked practically like bare metal! Yikes!

Glad I found it. Funny I went in to operate because of a ball lower ball joint, not brakes! Ha! :roll: