brake caliper question

OK. Here's one for you all.

I have one bad disc caliper. It wore one pad down on that side in under 50 miles.

Am I supposed to replace just one caliper, or both, to do this right?

TIA

NOI

Reply to
thund3rstruck_n0i
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I'd do just the one. However, you'd better do a thorough examine of the rotor. To have gone through a pad in that distance it's probably toast. Are you sure it's a bad caliper and not some foreign material blocking the return flow of brake fluid? Or rusted caliper pins?

Fire-TA '84 T/A w/ T-Tops

Reply to
Whitebird

Both. You always want to do anything to do with brakes in pairs by axle.

Reply to
FBR

FBR Spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed in :

Thanks, FBR. That's what I thought, but I figured it would be better to check.

NOI

Reply to
Thund3rstruck

Whitebird Spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed in :

I know the disc is toast. The wife told me she heard a grinding, and after checking both rotors, I went out and got rotors and pads for the front.

While changing all that, I found that I can't push the actuator back into the caliper using the small block of wood and C clamp trick. I used a bigger block of wood and tried to get the actuator to move out some. Well, it is securely frozen now apparently...

With the pads out, I reassembled the whole thing and am able to slide the good pad side in and out, so I know the pins are OK...

Thanks for the suggestions though...

NOI

Reply to
Thund3rstruck

You do realize that the rear disc calipers on these cars SCREW in, right :)?

You need a special tool to drive the piston back into the bore. Autozone or any retailer will rent it for free to you.

If not, Sears or any parts store will have it.

Throw both calipers out and get two new reubilds. A-1 Cardone or ARC do most of the rebuilds you see out there. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...

Reply to
Bigjfig

Check your flex lines, I had one colapse internally and it cause simillar problems. For the $ it worth changing anyway.

Reply to
1991 Z28

Bigjfig Spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed in :

The C clamp/board trick won't work on the fronts?

Planning to do just that.

Thanks

NOI

Reply to
Thund3rstruck
1991 Z28 Spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed in :

I have considered that, too... Thanks

NOI

Reply to
Thund3rstruck

That would be very rare in a GM caliper. Did you open the bleeder screw while trying to push the piston back? Everyone should get into the habit. It keeps debris that accumulates at the bottom of the brake system from getting push up into more sensative parts like the master cylinder, or worse the antilock controller.

Most likely the hose is collasped.

Reply to
David McNally

Martin '01 Formula - MTI Air Box Lid, K&N Filter, Hurst-6, SLP Cold Air Induction & Smooth Intake Bellow Corsa Catback w/Premium Tips '83 V45 Magna

Reply to
GLK9MM

Fronts yes, I thought it was rears for some reason you were working on?

As noted, change both flex lines. Raybestos, Wagner, and others supply these to parts stores and have them in stock. About 15 bones a side.

Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...

Reply to
Bigjfig

How exactly is that rare in a GM caliper? Happens ALL the time.

Reply to
CBHvac

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