Problem after replacing Ranger Vacuum Diaphram

I replaced a bad transmission vacuum diaphram (modulator) in a 94 Ranger and now a new problem has popped up. Slips while shifting. This occurred immediately after replacing the modulator. ATF is at the correct amount. Any suggestions?

Reply to
Ken Darnell
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did you put the pin (between modulator and valve) back in ?

Reply to
TransSurgeon

Reply to
Ken Darnell

is it by chance still in the old modulator, or did you pitch the old one ?

measure body of modulator

if its a bit over 1" diameter, then the pin should be 1.360 x 3/32 diameter

if the modulator is a bit over 1.5 inches in diameter, then pin is 1.513 x

1/8 inch

Reply to
TransSurgeon

TransSurgeon: The diaphragm part of the modulator is a little over 1.5". I don't think it came out with the old one, so it's possible it's still in the hole. Will it be okay there until I can have another look to retrieve it or is it now floating around in the tx?

PS. Thanks so much for all your valuable advice. Are you located near the Raleigh, NC area (shoulda just brought it to you.)

Reply to
Ken Darnell

if it's still in the hole it should be working

it probably came out with the old one, only about 3/8 to a half inch sticks out of the modulator

I'm in IL, BTW

Reply to
TransSurgeon

Reply to
Ken Darnell

DON'T drive it till you fix it

you'll smoke it

Reply to
TransSurgeon

jest fer giggles......if you do crawl back under there, and the pin ain't in it, you could always go down to the harware store.....and buy a "roll pin" and cut it to length...it'll work jest fine.

2 words:

WELDING ROD

Reply to
TransSurgeon
2 words:

WELDING ROD ======== ========

he would'a jest asked what kind.

marsh ~:~ ==== ====

Reply to
Marsh Monster

Thanks again TransSurgeon, Installed a new pin and all is better now.

Just a few words in response to Marsh Monster:

1) Never really said it was not slipping in the first place? No, but I did say the slipping started immediately after replacing the diaphragm.

2)Too lazy to crawl back under, etc... After doing exactly that, went the following day and bought a new pin. Any other brilliant suggestions?

3)Evident you knew it wasn't there. See #2 above. Additionally, all of this transpired sunday evening/ monday morning Feb 15 -16 before you even posted anything.

Further notes: Given that the dealer had this part on the shelf for $1.67, how much soul searching, jerry rigging (welding rods, roll pins etc) is one supposed to devote to this? (Roll pins are hollow, by the way, judging from the shape of the pin it's doubtful this would make a suitable replacement.)

And before you reply back and say something like 'look who's calling whom brilliant, you lost the pin after all,' let me go ahead and respond by saying I'm not purfect, I made a mistake, I've corrected the problem (thanks to TransSurgeon's helpful guidance.) This kind of thing happens in shops all the time, else why would the dealer have the pin on the shelf, why all the advice on how to cope (roll pins etc...) And yes I've been there.

I replaced a bad transmission vacuum diaphram (modulator) in a 94 Ranger and now a new problem has popped up.

Slips while shifting. This occurred immediately after replacing the modulator.

ATF is at the correct amount.

Any suggestions? ========= =========

Do what Gary said.....

DON"T DRIVE IT....

I've read the thread up to date.....and 3 things come to mind.

1) you NEVER really said that the thing was NOT slipping before you worked on it.

2) you're too lazy to crawl back under there and spend the 5 minutes to see if the pin is even in the unit.

3) by you're immediate reply to Gary's asking if you put the pin back in.....(No I Did NOT).... it's evident that you knew it wasn't in there.

my suspicion...???..... 1) it was already slipping... 2) you're not lazy....you jest know it's a useless cause......because, it WAS slipping before. 3) you either lost it.....or, couldn't get it back in,.....or, you didn't know it had one.

conclusion....... you better call a tranny shop.

jest fer giggles......if you do crawl back under there, and the pin ain't in it, you could always go down to the harware store.....and buy a "roll pin" and cut it to length...it'll work jest fine.

marsh ~thinks yer silly~ ====== ======

Reply to
Ken Darnell

Well Kenny baby- Marsh Monster (under a wide variety of names) has helped a shitload of people on this site. His response to your problems was on the money and offered a way to solve the problem YOU created without a trip to the dealer - since some people aren't able to visit FOMOCO when they need a part. I'm sure your "huffiness" over his attitude toward your problem will not gain you any future points with him..it certainly hasn't endeared you to me. Marsh Monster has repaired more vehicles than you will see in your lifetime.

Reply to
bomar

. . snipped-for-privacy@mindspring.com (Ken=A0Darnell)

Thanks again TransSurgeon, Installed a new pin and all is better now.

Just a few words in response to Marsh Monster:

1) Never really said it was not slipping in the first place? No, but I did say the slipping started immediately after replacing the diaphragm.

2)Too lazy to crawl back under, etc... After doing exactly that, went the following day and bought a new pin. Any other brilliant suggestions?

3)Evident you knew it wasn't there. See #2 above. Additionally, all of this transpired sunday evening/ monday morning Feb 15 -16 before you even posted anything.

Further notes: Given that the dealer had this part on the shelf for $1.67, how much soul searching, jerry rigging (welding rods, roll pins etc) is one supposed to devote to this? (Roll pins are hollow, by the way, judging from the shape of the pin it's doubtful this would make a suitable replacement.)

And before you reply back and say something like 'look who's calling whom brilliant, you lost the pin after all,' let me go ahead and respond by saying I'm not purfect, I made a mistake, I've corrected the problem (thanks to TransSurgeon's helpful guidance.)

This kind of thing happens in shops all the time, else why would the dealer have the pin on the shelf, why all the advice on how to cope (roll pins etc...)

And yes I've been there. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

hey Ken, Been where?

lost, confused, confounded, befuddled ?

oh yeah... one other thing.....

if you've been there before.....then why didn't you just crawl back under that there truck of yern......and fix what you'de broke? Before you posted in here.

marshmonster ~takes a sip of his crown and coke....and reflects on what his pop used to say...... "if it were'nt broke before you fixed it.... YOU BROKE IT!".....~ =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Reply to
Marsh Monster

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Sat, Feb 21, 2004, 9:21pm (CST+6) From: snipped-for-privacy@mindspring.com (Ken=A0Darnell)

Thanks again TransSurgeon, Installed a new pin and all is better now.

Just a few words in response to Marsh Monster:

1) Never really said it was not slipping in the first place? No, but I did say the slipping started immediately after replacing the diaphragm.

2)Too lazy to crawl back under, etc... After doing exactly that, went the following day and bought a new pin. Any other brilliant suggestions?

3)Evident you knew it wasn't there. See #2 above. Additionally, all of this transpired sunday evening/ monday morning Feb 15 -16 before you even posted anything.

Further notes: Given that the dealer had this part on the shelf for $1.67, how much soul searching, jerry rigging (welding rods, roll pins etc) is one supposed to devote to this?

(Roll pins are hollow, by the way, judging from the shape of the pin it's doubtful this would make a suitable replacement.)

And before you reply back and say something like 'look who's calling whom brilliant, you lost the pin after all,' let me go ahead and respond by saying I'm not purfect, I made a mistake, I've corrected the problem

(thanks to TransSurgeon's helpful guidance.)

This kind of thing happens in shops all the time, else why would the dealer have the pin on the shelf, why all the advice on how to cope (roll pins etc...)

And yes I've been there. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Ken,

if your going to work on your own vehicals.... buy yourself a manual.

This will help you in two ways......

1) it will help you to know all the parts associated with the system your working on, and what parts should be utilized.

2) it will help you keep from aggrevating me.

Ken, now sweep up your bay..... empty the trash cans..... clean yer greasy fingerprints off that vehical.... make me some more coffee..... clean the toilets ....... sweep the parking lot..... wash my truck.....

and when you git all that done......

go to the break room and read dem manuals I got fer yuh......

i'm take'n it easy on you this time..... so be carefull....

marshmonster ~suggests you git rid of the attitude....or yer gonna be fired~ =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Reply to
Marsh Monster

I have a '89 Ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder with 95k. Where do I find the Vacuum Diaphram/modulator? Please help. And thank you.

Rob

Reply to
gbfox

transmission vacuum modulator is on passengers side of transmission, about

2/3 of the way back, usually there is a heat shield hanging on the side of the transmission, its behind that

take off the 10 mm nut on the 'stud-bolt' (long extension and swivel socket) remove heat shield, then remove the stud-bolt (10 mm deep socket), take off clip and remove modulator

DON'T LOSE the pin between the modulator and the actual valve, its about 1.5 inches long and 3/32 in diameter

Reply to
TransSurgeon

Thank you for all the help.

Reply to
gbfox

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