Re: Help checking rear brake lining on my Ranger

Hello!

> > I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4X4 with antilock brakes and rear drums. This is a > rather simple question, but it's not really addressed in my Haynes repair guide > (nor in the owner's manual). I'm assuming the inspection port for the Ranger's > rear drum is the hard plastic disk at the 12 o'clock position. It's about an > inch to inch and a quarter in diameter. The rubber plug at the 6 o'clock > position is for the star wheel adjustment. Do I just take a srewdriver and pry > this off? Can I reuse this plug afterwards (it is a very hard material, but > feels like plastic)? > > I was tempted to pop off this and actually tried to insert a screwdriver at the > edge of the disk, but I didn't want to use any force unless I could get > confirmation that this was indeed the inspection port. It is just above the > brake line and I didn't want to be surprised by brake fluid running out when I > try to remove this plug. > > I want to check this as my recent 30,000 mile tune up (a rip off BTW, they just > needed to change the fuel filter; they were trying to talk me into servicing > all the fuel injectors) the mechanic's report was that the rear drums were worn > down by 2/3rds (but the front disks were fine). I find it strange that the rear > drums would wear out before the front disks! No, I have never driven this with > the e brake left on.... > > Is it normal to have to replace the Ranger's rear drum linings after 40,000 > miles??? > > I'm very comfortable replacing disk pads, but I find replacing drum linings a > bit intimadating; perhaps a job for the Midas shop....

I am not a brake expert, but why don't you just remove the drums and look at the pads? Jack up the rear end and remove the tire, then making sure to block the tires release the parking break and remove the drum... I replaced my rear pads at about 35k because they were squeaking. It appeared to me that there was plenty of life in the pads. It is not too bad of a job, but I have done it many times on various vehicles. If you don't have the right tools it can be a bit of a knuckle buster. Be sure to make a diagram of all the springs etc... when you remove them...

Robin in Bremerton

Reply to
Robin Henderson
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On Sun, 17 Aug 2003 01:10:56 +0000, Robin Henderson rearranged some electrons to form:

Robin is right, pop the drum off. That's the only way to see the shoes. You can get a brake spring tool at Sears for a few bucks. Get the "combination" tool that can remove all 3 of the different kinds of springs.

I have found doing brake jobs now and then, the easiest way is to do one wheel at a time. Then, if you can't remember how the springs and adjusters go, just go look at the other side (keeping in mind that it is a mirror image).

DON'T mix up the adjusting mechanisms... if get them on backwards, the brakes will adjust in the wrong direction.

The rear shoes should last longer than the front pads, unless they are not adjusted properly.

You didn't crank down on the adjusting wheel, did you? :-)

Reply to
David M

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