What' the correct procedure?

I recently replaced all four tie-rods on my '81F100. While the joint to the pitman arm was off, I moved the pitman arm toward the drivers-side
of the truck. I don't believe the steering wheel was in the locked position at the time, but when I swung the pitman arm, it may have gone into lock. When I began the replacement procedure the steering wheel was in the 9 to 3 o'clock position, now it's in about 11:30 to 5:30 position.....so it's about 90 off. I broke the pitman arm joint off again and tried to reposition, but once I re-installed the joint, nothing had changed. The problem isn't with the new rods, since I carefully measured everything and transferred those measurements to the new rods. It's not in correct toe-in specs, but it's real close. Before I take it in for toe-in adjustment, I want to fix my FU. Can someone give me the correct procedure to reposition my steering wheel back to the 9 to 3 position? Truck has power-steering, if that makes any difference. I'm using a 'pickle-fork' to break the joint loose, and have only 1 new boot left, so I need to do it right this next time. TIA
Dave
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

I've never had that problem and have had mine apart a bunch of times. :/ Maybe what you're talking about is what I've never seen as a problem because I just pull my steering wheel off and reposition it each time?
Is that it? :/
Are you able to turn the wheels all the way to both sides if you ignore the steering wheel's position?
If it's just the steering wheel... buy/rent/borrow a puller.
On mine there are two philips head screws that you can't see on the back side of the steering wheel I use a stubby and unscrew those by feel. That releases the horn pad on mine. Then it's a 1+1/16" or is it a 1+1/8"(?) socket for the nut. Believe it's a 1+1/8". :)
Anyway you put the puller up there and then screw two long bolts (5/16"-24 fine thread) into the empty holes (the horn ground wire is plugged into one of them)... is that what you needed?
Also, my pickup only has two tie-rods, but four tie-rod-ends, is that what you meant? You got four wheel drive?
Alvin in AZ ('75 F150)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
He said: nothing had changed. The problem isn't with the new rods, since I carefully measured everything and transferred those measurements to the new rods. It's not in correct toe-in specs, but it's real close. Before I take it in for toe-in adjustment, I want to fix my FU. Can someone give me the correct procedure to reposition my steering wheel back to the 9 to 3 position?
I said: You don't need to take it back off again & you don't need to pull the steering wheel. With the tires in a straight ahead position, loosen the clamps on the tie rod end adjusting threads and adjust both the same amount in the direction that it takes to rotate the steering wheel to where you want it. The simplest way though, is to just let the alignment people set the steering wheel at the same time they set the alignment. They'll have everything loose anyway.
Tom J
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thanks Tom! I understand that would do the trick, but it would also mess up the alignment I have now. I have new tires, which is what started this replacement in the first place. What with the cost of the tires and the new tie-rods and the next cost of the alignment job, I need to drive around for some time until I get the $$ ($50+) for the alignment. Work in my trade is 'scarce' here. Pulling the steering wheel was never a consideration. I appreciate your suggestion.
Dave
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If you screw the left tie rod end in, and the right tie rod end out (or reverse) the same full turns until you get the steering wheel where you want it, you're not changing the alignment you have already guessed at.
Tom J

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

crap just do it correctly and ignor these screw balls. pull the pitman arm off. turn the steering wheel lock to lock count the turns, then put it center of travel then you are at correct position for the pitman arm to be put back on.(with the wheel straight ahead) then check the steering wheel and center it. after all this, correct the offage at the wheels with the tie rod end adjustments. KB
--
ThunderSnake #9 Warn once, shoot twice
460 in the pkup, 460 on the stand for another pkup
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

OP, did you remove the pitman arm from the steering gear? If so... well... Duh! :(
Alvin in AZ
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Just make it longer on one side and shorter on the other, by equal amounts, until it's straight. The alignment shops do the opposite; they point the steering wheel straight, then point the wheels straight to match. That's hard to do at home, but it might help you think about it that way.
I recently replaced all four tie-rods on my '81F100. While the joint to the pitman arm was off, I moved the pitman arm toward the drivers-side of the truck. I don't believe the steering wheel was in the locked position at the time, but when I swung the pitman arm, it may have gone into lock. When I began the replacement procedure the steering wheel was in the 9 to 3 o'clock position, now it's in about 11:30 to 5:30 position.....so it's about 90 off. I broke the pitman arm joint off again and tried to reposition, but once I re-installed the joint, nothing had changed. The problem isn't with the new rods, since I carefully measured everything and transferred those measurements to the new rods. It's not in correct toe-in specs, but it's real close. Before I take it in for toe-in adjustment, I want to fix my FU. Can someone give me the correct procedure to reposition my steering wheel back to the 9 to 3 position? Truck has power-steering, if that makes any difference. I'm using a 'pickle-fork' to break the joint loose, and have only 1 new boot left, so I need to do it right this next time. TIA
Dave
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.